tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44929965320935346192024-03-13T10:28:45.586-07:00Sierra Mtn. Guides NewsSierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.comBlogger80125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-22837185828011730182013-04-13T10:11:00.000-07:002013-04-13T10:11:25.456-07:00State of the High Sierra Backcountry - April 2013<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Hi there backcountry skiers and snowboarders!</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SqiUteOANIQ/UWmFUfq2GjI/AAAAAAAAGS4/rcYppOaGKPs/s1600/0020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SqiUteOANIQ/UWmFUfq2GjI/AAAAAAAAGS4/rcYppOaGKPs/s320/0020.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the first wet one, Mammoth Mountain 12/3/12 </td></tr>
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What an interesting season it has been so far. The winter started off perfectly with big wet storms in early December,<br />
followed by high ratio snow dumps with uncharacteristically calm winds. This all gave us a very memorable early season of deep light powder skiing throughout the Sierra. It feels like a distant memory now. January featured it's usual June-uary thaw and began a drought that plagued us all producing record breaking low precip for the two month Jan-Feb time period. March came in like a lamb, and since then it has been highly variable, and unremarkable weather in the Sierra. We have experienced intense warming with little freeze, as well as profound low temps that resulted in some icy and firm backcountry conditions. There has been decent corn skiing for those who have hit it right and/or been willing to carry skis a bit for it. Weak storm systems that split upon reaching our mountains, or just brushed past them produced storms averaging around 2-8 inches of snow at a time and giving us fleeting moments of fun, powdery skiing on top of a mix of <br />
crusts and sugary facets. The winds have finally come to the range with the last storms where winds up to 120 mph were measured. This has smoothed out some sun effects and should help create some decent corn skiing in the coming weeks.<br />
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<u>A few highlights to show conditions over the season:</u><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--E2jQkobaCc/UWmGRNqAOQI/AAAAAAAAGTA/rQ7yYckBRaA/s1600/0025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--E2jQkobaCc/UWmGRNqAOQI/AAAAAAAAGTA/rQ7yYckBRaA/s320/0025.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Negatives 12/19/12</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8oT9riDc1_c/UWmLtv1dq5I/AAAAAAAAGTg/HDHqyjXo_ls/s1600/0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8oT9riDc1_c/UWmLtv1dq5I/AAAAAAAAGTg/HDHqyjXo_ls/s320/0001.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W8BsSGaXHQ0/UWmN0bN5xTI/AAAAAAAAGTw/7dPJevYLQtY/s1600/IMGP5961.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>False Gibbs & East Peak of Dana 1/8</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_iiGfBLD3xU/UWmK4ZK89MI/AAAAAAAAGTY/fU7KR1742L4/s1600/P1030972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_iiGfBLD3xU/UWmK4ZK89MI/AAAAAAAAGTY/fU7KR1742L4/s320/P1030972.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Green Creek 2/18</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BIdj1P3ub5M/UWmJUvQBbHI/AAAAAAAAGTQ/pgEPNFFko1s/s1600/0023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BIdj1P3ub5M/UWmJUvQBbHI/AAAAAAAAGTQ/pgEPNFFko1s/s320/0023.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Devil's Slide 2/20</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OX9wAknZK88/UWmH39P3jXI/AAAAAAAAGTI/ztTZtxC_tTs/s1600/Sawtooths-pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="155" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OX9wAknZK88/UWmH39P3jXI/AAAAAAAAGTI/ztTZtxC_tTs/s400/Sawtooths-pano.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sawtooths 2/26</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJgDa1tu2jw/UWmCxr7quTI/AAAAAAAAGSw/2TflQ7MHSUY/s1600/0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJgDa1tu2jw/UWmCxr7quTI/AAAAAAAAGSw/2TflQ7MHSUY/s320/0002.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McGee Creek 3/13</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HrILdgl2JB8/UWl-0PRZrKI/AAAAAAAAGSk/q-BlhgnZ5bs/s1600/P1040286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HrILdgl2JB8/UWl-0PRZrKI/AAAAAAAAGSk/q-BlhgnZ5bs/s320/P1040286.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Echo Col 3/26</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tca0EmzpDro/UWmNbaIbLeI/AAAAAAAAGTs/FV4sQoOw_p4/s1600/P1040354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tca0EmzpDro/UWmNbaIbLeI/AAAAAAAAGTs/FV4sQoOw_p4/s320/P1040354.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ionian Basin 3/26</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W8BsSGaXHQ0/UWmN0bN5xTI/AAAAAAAAGTw/7dPJevYLQtY/s1600/IMGP5961.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; font-size: 13px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W8BsSGaXHQ0/UWmN0bN5xTI/AAAAAAAAGTw/7dPJevYLQtY/s400/IMGP5961.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking with skis and boots up Convict Canyon 4/2</td></tr>
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<u>Check out the April-September runoff forecast from Edison/DWR:</u><br />
Bishop Creek: 71% of normal<br />
Rush Creek: 66% of normal<br />
Lee Vining Creek: 60% of normal<br />
Mill Creek: 52% of normal<br />
Kern River: 41% of normal<br />
Kaweah River: 52% of normal<br />
Tule River: 31% of normal<br />
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What does this mean for us as backcountry skiers and snowboarders? Well, first of all, get it while you still can. Soon the roads will open and allow a nice wave of access to deeper snowpacks. But it won't last very long, at least not unless we have some sort of unlikely miracle event in May. Until then, target backcountry trips where the snow is, and that is pretty predictable these days.<br />
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Here is how I would describe where to find it: The best High Sierra snow coverage is currently located above 10,000 feet, North of the Palisades and just West of the Sierra Crest. The map below shows this graphically, where the green line and above is the approximate area of most snow, the yellow line and above represents marginal coverage, and the red line and above marks hiking terrain. (below the red line is considered foothills/valleys that are obviously snow free at this time)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AuhG9N4nEsI/UWc_4HliXBI/AAAAAAAAGSY/XvhEUKj5OTs/s1600/Sierra-snow-map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AuhG9N4nEsI/UWc_4HliXBI/AAAAAAAAGSY/XvhEUKj5OTs/s640/Sierra-snow-map.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High Sierra relative snow coverage map, Tioga Pass to Mt. Whitney</td></tr>
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In addition to what you can represent on a map, upper elevation slopes and gullies more exposed to wind and sun are shockingly barren throughout the range. Along the Eastside there is already not enough snow down low on many sunny aspect slopes and couloirs, so the corn season could be better in May when when roads open further and more northerly aspects get more sun. Crest Tours are generally not recommended this spring, except in places like the Ritter Range, Goddard Divide, and perhaps the Sawtooths. Trans-Sierra tours like the High Route should be low tide but OK, just be prepared for significant extra hiking on the in and the out and understand that you may have to portage your skis across barren patches with relative frequency.<br />
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<u>Be strategic for the rest of the season in planning your ski outings. For example:</u><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Don't plan on descending below 9000' for very long anywhere in the range, unless you think it is worth the walking. </li>
<li>Use roads like the one to South Lake or Onion Valley to get a high start. </li>
<li>Consider carrying a light pair of walking shoes for long stretches of dirt.</li>
<li>Wait until Tioga or Sonora Pass Roads open so you can start or finish up there.</li>
<li>Re-route your Sierra High Route to Onion Valley instead of Shepherd Pass. </li>
<li>Consider looping the Ritter Range High Tour back to Mammoth via the San Joaquin Ridge to avoid the long trail walk down to June Lake. </li>
<li>Consider a high country basecamp trip instead of a point to point tour to maximize skiing and limit the difficulties of travel. </li>
<li>Be flexible and wait for a good weather window so you don't add difficulties to the challenge of conditions. </li>
<li>A good aspect of this touring season is that there will be plenty of access to open water and dry camping. You may be able to go a little lighter on cooking and shelter systems if you plan carefully and coordinate with stable weather. </li>
</ul>
Enjoy what we have, and remember that this is the season to milk and savor every last turn. Hammer on those ski boots and fill them with mud. Scrape those edges on the rocks and don't worry too much about it. The snowline is rising and pretty soon it will be prime alpine climbing season. And next to more skiing and riding, what could be better than that? - Howie</div>
Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-28998421369069843182013-03-18T11:32:00.000-07:002013-03-18T11:32:08.968-07:00The Bloody Couloir<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-52042703533259632502013-03-06T12:52:00.000-08:002013-03-06T12:52:36.206-08:00Winter Mt. Whitney 2013<br />
To Summit or not To Summit – Musings of a Sierra Mountain Guide<br />
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As I put away the expedition gear from my recent trip and place the kit back on the<br />
racks in the garage, I find myself reflecting on the outcome of the trip I am returning<br />
from. Drying the tent out, I think about the locations we used for camps and add a<br />
little self critique as to if they could be improved on or not. Cleaning and putting the<br />
cooking equipment away reminds me to look into a new pump for that ten year old<br />
Primus stove that acted up a little on this last trip and may just be plum worn out.<br />
Grabbing for the rope and rack, this time it is hard not to be a little dismayed. On<br />
this trip we didn’t get a chance to use the technical equipment; weather came in on<br />
us just hours before the wake up call for our attempt on the summit of Mt Whitney<br />
in winter. While we made a thoughtful decision that most of the members of the<br />
group were hoping to hear, not trying for the summit is still a bitter pill for me.<br />
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Having climbed and guided peaks on six continents, it is always fascinating to me</div>
how one can find a ready challenge in your own back yard. Climbing Mt Whitney<br />
during the winter months will always provide a challenge, but it is easy to forget<br />
that even with the best preparation, all you need is a sudden change in weather to<br />
throw a curve at you. Winds that make it hard to stand on your feet on flat ground<br />
prove especially troubling climbing a steep couloir with some 3 rd and 4th class<br />
rock. The added snowfall needs to be taken into consideration as well, as you don’t<br />
want to climb the mountain, only to find the avalanche conditions to have changed<br />
significantly on the slopes now below that must be crossed to return back to camp.<br />
These problems can appear as readily on peaks close to home as they may in the<br />
Andes or the Himalaya.<br />
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Without a doubt, proper planning and preparation are the key ingredients to a<br />
successful trip. As a guide, this is where I see most groups fail to achieve their goal.<br />
Perhaps they misjudged the difficulty of the route and couldn’t move fast enough,<br />
or maybe they climbed too high on the first day of their trip, rendering legs useless<br />
from the climb and heads hurting from the altitude. It all comes down to having<br />
a good plan and knowing what to bring. But in the end, the mountain still sets its<br />
terms, and no matter your level of experience, you won’t know what exactly what<br />
to expect until you arrive. Examples of this happening to me flood to mind; a recent<br />
trip to New Zealand to climb Mt Cook that shut my partner and I down to the point<br />
of never setting foot on the mountain. Another trip to Ecuador that stymied us twice<br />
on peaks, when strong wind and snowfall made us wonder if a safe descent from the<br />
summit would be possible. Hasty retreat ensued in both instances, and we never<br />
questioned our decision having endured the torment of the weather for several<br />
hours before coming to it.<br />
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Back to Mt Whitney, it was a tough call we had to make that morning. The<br />
conditions were pretty bad; the gusting wind was carrying frozen droplets of<br />
moisture that pelted you in the face like little bb’s, and it certainly didn’t make sense<br />
to roust everyone for the climb when we were almost being blown from our feet<br />
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just coming to the decision. Yet when you don’t try for the summit, you will always<br />
be left not knowing the outcome of the attempt, had one been made. Would we<br />
have turned back at Iceberg Lake having found it too difficult to keep our feet on<br />
the ground? Would the stinging snow in our faces been enough to turn us back?<br />
Or would the weather have broken and the summit come cleanly into grasp? In<br />
the end the stormy clouds clung to the peak well into mid-afternoon, and reflecting<br />
with our team on the descent from high camp that day, most were concerned about<br />
simply leaving the tents that morning, no less enduring the weather on the more<br />
extreme terrain of the climb. Sometimes it is just better to turn back and appreciate<br />
the defeat, knowing simply it just wasn’t your day. While I sometimes struggle with<br />
the undesired outcome, I never bemoan the fact that I still have all my fingers and<br />
toes, and good decision-making has kept my partners and I from having a serious<br />
accident in the mountains. Besides, if every climb was guaranteed to be a success,<br />
what kind of adventure would that be?<br />
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Cheers and good hunting,<br />
Jeff Witt<br />
Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-72508622316354005852012-10-11T15:00:00.000-07:002012-10-12T09:24:40.043-07:00Scramblers/Senders- Kids Climbing Program<br />
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Summer 2012 flew by as I had so much fun teaching rock climbing to almost fifty kids from the Eastern Sierra. We had a great mix of ages and abilities, some climbed for the first time and others returned to further develop their skills. In all of the returning climbers I saw an amazing step forward. It was great to see the kids taking climbing seriously, taking responsibility for their learning and turning into real rock climbers. The new kids jumped right into the mix and showed an amazing ability to learn and grow over the five weeks of our program. The motivation these kids have is incredible! Together they learned new knots, hitches, how to belay each other, how to rappel, move more efficiently on the rock and much more.<br />
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The reward for me as an instructor is seeing the beaming faces of these children. Maybe they just climbed to the top of a route that they found challenging, or they might have just mastered a new knot or belayed for the first time, their excitement and enthusiasm is priceless. There are endless opportunities for each child to learn and succeed in a supportive environment on the rocks. <br />
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So hopefully I will see you and your children for our Summer 2013 program. If you have any questions on how to sign up don't hesitate to contact the office 760.648.1122<br />
~Guide Barbara Wanner<br />
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Another stellar week in the Italian Dolomites! Dan and I hiked a good portion of the Alta Via 1 trek, staying at several stunning alpine huts along the way. My favorite was Rifugio Lavarella – great food, relaxing ambiance, pleasant staff, and a traditional Finnish sauna to relax your muscles at the end of a long day’s hike.<u></u><u></u></div>
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Exploring a bit off the beaten track, we hiked up to a high point above the Lavarella hut. A small rock rolled across the trail in front of me, so I glanced uphill. Nothing. Curious, I thought. It didn’t seem like somewhere I would see rockfall. Something would have had to kick it to get it rolling. I stopped again, and looked more intently this time. After a moment, I saw something move. Chamois. First just one, hiding in its stillness. Then a second appeared, blotting out the sun – and casting a perfect silhouette. Then a third. They skipped up the ridgeline faster even than Ueli Steck – and with one last glance back at us, they were gone. But not before I got a few postcard shots of their charming, distinctive outline along a striking blue backdrop.<u></u><u></u></div>
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The next day, we watched a world-class rescue on a peak we hiked by. A climber had fallen, and within an hour, he had been plucked by a helicopter and flown down to town. Impressive technical rescue teams here.<u></u><u></u></div>
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This week, we are back in town for some day hikes to cover some of the highlights of the region we didn’t see on Alta Via 1.</div>
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~SMG Guide Lyra Pierotti</div>
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Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-16877568630752434102012-09-16T10:07:00.000-07:002012-09-16T10:07:15.849-07:00Dolomites 2012! - Part 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4jY52rB0uOw/UFTQHh8FElI/AAAAAAAAGDc/aU6FkzFKQ0Q/s1600/DolomitesPano1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4jY52rB0uOw/UFTQHh8FElI/AAAAAAAAGDc/aU6FkzFKQ0Q/s640/DolomitesPano1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening light on the Fanes and Tofana Groups featuring 3 of our classic via ferratas </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wynne and Jill on Day 1</td></tr>
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“Can we please stop
somewhere?” asked Kellie in a shaky voice as we drove up the pass on day 1 of
our week long via ferrata mega tour in the Italian Dolomites. The trailhead was around 5 minutes away,
but Heidi the taxi driver pulled over promptly, which was good because it
turned out that Kellie was very suddenly and violently suffering some acute
gastroenteritis of unknown origin picked up on her travels. It was
fortunate that Taylor, (see Dolomites Part 1) stayed with us to join this via ferrata
trip because he taught us the verb “bullfrogging” and because he had very fast
reflexes when Kellie needed to quickly exit the van for another round on the
way up to the pass. It was clear that she wasn’t going to join us on our
adventure that day so Heidi took her back down to town while Jill, Wynne,
Taylor, and I went up for an excellent warm-up day on the Ferrata Tridentina, a
beautiful route that ascends a steep cliff alongside an alpine waterfall.
During a nice lunch at the top at the Pisciadu Hut we learned that Kellie had a
much different adventure that day. Her illness got worse on the way down and she took a
ride in a helicopter to a nearby hospital. Fortunately she got much better
quickly but the doctors kept her overnight to make sure her health was ok. She
was given the go ahead by the doc to join us the next day. We were all very
concerned but it is amazing that she was able to be so active less than 24
hours after being hospitalized, a testimony to her spirit and fortitude, as
well as the modern Western medical system. We met her at the end of day 2 at the
Lagazuoi Hut. On our way to meet her we hiked a scenic trail to the steep and
technical Ferrata Tomaselli. We hiked past WWI ruins to the Lagazuoi Hut where
we met Kellie and enjoyed a fantastic dinner and an epic sunset all together.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wynne, Jill, & Taylor on Ferrata Tridentina</td></tr>
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Via Ferratas (iron paths) are manufactured routes through
the mountains equipped on steep and exposed walls with steel cables and anchors.
With special equipment we can clip to the cables and keep ourselves attached to
the mountainside. Most of the via ferrata in the Dolomites follow historic
routes used by the Italian and Austrian militaries back in WWI. They have been
modernized and maintained for the mountain adventurers that these routes now
attract. Via ferratas are often incredibly scenic and can be long and physical,
requiring several hours of activity. Moving on a via ferrata route feels like
cross between steep hiking and rock climbing. The moves can be steep and
sometimes difficult for the average hiker, but there is always the equivalent
of a ladder rung where foot and hand holds are needed. Such an amazing way to
tour the mountains!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical Dolomites snack stop</td></tr>
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On this trip we planned to take on 6 classic via ferrata
routes and a climb of Mt. Antelao in a week as we toured across the Dolomites.
This was planned ambitiously and optimistically. Surprisingly, we had perfect
sunny weather for every day! Although various physical and medical ailments
conspired to drive us off our itinerary and impede our enjoyment, this group
remained outstandingly flexible, strong, and high spirited. In addition to
members of our team summitting Antelao, Tofana di Rozes, & Tofana di Mezzo,
we also collectively managed to enjoy the following classic ferratas:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Tridentina</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Tomaselli</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Lipella</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Pomedes</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Berti</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">& Dibona</span></li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An awesome team!</td></tr>
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This is in addition to a day spent by 4 of us to check out
the town of Cortina for some great food and window shopping. We enjoyed
spectacular sunsets and sunrises, incredible local food, cappuccinos galore,
and more chocolate than any person should ingest in a week. We saw sheep,
goats, and chamois. Tons of moving history in the mountains. The only raindrops
we felt the whole week were a few minutes after reaching our destination on the
last day as we sat down to one last cappuccino and torte together. This group
was so easygoing and hilarious and I really enjoyed everyone’s company - many
great laughs! Thanks Taylor, Jill, Wynne, and Kellie for a most memorable and
incredible tour of the Dolomites 2012! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SMG Guide Lyra Pierotti on the Ferrata Berti</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taylor on the Ferrata Olivieri</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jill approaches Ferrata Tomaselli</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">WWI bunker on Lagazuoi</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach to the Ferrata Lipella</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ferrata Lipella starts in a war tunnel for 300 vertical meters</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kellie & Wynne take on the cables of the Ferrata Lipella</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful day on Ferrata Pomedes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sun deck near the summit of Tofana di Mezzo</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking a break on a hike down to Cortina</td></tr>
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Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-60413140190985538872012-09-03T20:47:00.001-07:002012-09-13T12:52:18.537-07:00Summery Summary, Part 3: "Listers"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>Jed's final post of the summer. After one more Palisades trip he'll head to Washington for an AMGA exam. He'll be back in October: Bring on couloirs and rock climbing!</i></div>
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Forgive me, but I like to find themes that unify chunks of time in my memory. My summer, 2012 has been easily divisible by 4: Part 1- <a href="http://sierramountainguides.blogspot.com/2012/07/summery-summary-part-1.html">Sweet sending</a>. Part 2- <a href="http://sierramountainguides.blogspot.com/2012/07/evolution-traverse-july-2012.html">Big traversing</a>. Part 3- <a href="http://sierramountainguides.blogspot.com/2012/08/summery-summary-part-2-family-time.html">Family time</a>. Finally, this latter portion of my personal summer, has been chock-full of peak-bagging "listers". I have spent a ton of time in the mountains with you folks who seek out the ticklists. State high-pointers, county high-pointers, threshold listers (14ers, 13ers, 12ers, 11ers, even 10ers... yes, I'm serious), run-a-marathon-in-every-staters... the list of listers could go on and on. Each person's lists are different, each persons motivations are personal, and everyone's tactics are unique. What unites all of you is that you feel the need to somehow apologize for who you are. And that's a shame. Own it! Find that motivation, go beyond what you think you can do, visit those places that no one else visits. Rest assured that you are not alone and that we do not think you are ridiculous. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peakbagger extraordinaire, Teresa G. nearing the summit of Dragon Peak. #840 something out of the "highest 1000 peaks in the contiguous US". Shazam!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cardio monster Joe L. on Thunderbolt's summit block. Tough to get time away from work and family? Trying to climb all the lower 48 14ers <i>and</i> all the state highpoints <i>and </i>run a marathon in each state? Just be uber fit, duh.</td></tr>
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Fascinated with the lists? Looking to go beyond the 14ers? Yeah me too. Teresa introduced me to <a href="http://listsofjohn.com/">listsofjohn.com</a>. To say "the list goes on" is an understatement. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-84020005533613112432012-09-03T10:23:00.000-07:002012-09-03T10:23:11.876-07:00EUROPE TREKKING<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: black;"><u><span style="color: black;">Cancel the return flight</span></u></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">by: Guide Lyra Pierotti </span></span></h3>
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I think I made a big mistake purchasing a round trip plane ticket
for my trip to the Dolomites. Should have just gotten a one-way.<br />
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I just about passed out on our descent from Passo Falzarego. It may
have been from having to skip lunch and run in cirlces to buy my bus
ticket here and catch it there after finally locating the one person who
could tetris together my complicated transportation needs; or perhaps
the jet lag was catching up to me again; I suppose it could have been
the fumes from the German cyclists who were airing out their socks in
the bar at the passo; or perhaps again, it was just that stunning. I
like to think the latter.<br />
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Either way, after a lovely couple of days visiting my mom and family
friends Cate and Walt in Venice, I finally arrived in Badia, otherwise
known at Abtei. In the south Tyrol, everything is in Italian and German.
I had much more luck using Abtei. No idea why, but here I am. Abtei.
Don't say Badia, everyone gets confused.<br />
Stay tuned for some more spectacular photos (no compliment to myself,
I think I could close my eyes and click the shutter and have a
beautiful shot), and plenty of adventures as my client, Dan and I
explore this mountainous Italo-German fusion land.<br />
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I am hoping to find this fusion beneficial to both cultures: perhaps
buses and trains will run on schedule despite the fact that I'm still in
Italy; and maybe the Germans have gotten a lesson in olfactory
aesthetics.<br />
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Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com1Italy41.87194 12.5673835.826312 2.4599580000000003 47.917568 22.674802tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-1238611285026772352012-08-31T09:16:00.003-07:002012-08-31T09:16:45.121-07:00SMG Dolomites 2012! Part 1 <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The Italian Dolomites: where mountain culture and geology converge to facilitate the most outstanding and accessible alpine rock climbing adventure opportunities on Earth. A climber from the Eastern Sierra can really appreciate the contrast here. At home we have craggy and sometimes snowy high peaks juxtaposed against the desert of the Owens Valley. Here in the Dolomites we see steep, gray-orange peaks and spires rising above lush, rolling green valleys. In these valleys are little hamlets situated perfectly to welcome happy climbers and alpinists as they return from vertical adventures. As is standard in the Italian Alps, the food and drink is off the charts and the people are all beautiful and friendly. The climbing is almost to good to be believed. Climbs are steep and juggy, even the easy ones. The easier it is, the less fixed protection it has, and often the pro includes ancient and/or dubious pins. Runouts are long, and falling is not really an option on the easier pitches. On the other hand, there are decent anchors available where they are truly needed. The balance of equipage keeps the adventure level high, requires well-developed climbing skill, and preserves a character of climbing here that celebrates a connection to the spirit of more than a century of vertical exploration here. I challenge any real rock climber to resist the lure of climbing in such an enchanting place, given the opportunity.<div>
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Taylor Samuels is one of our regular and most beloved VIP guests at Sierra Mountain Guides. He is constantly prodding us to increase the adventure level on mountain trips. This spring we took him to the most remote and incredible ski venue on Earth - <a href="http://sierramountainguides.blogspot.it/2012/06/wild-alpine-ultima-thule-alaska-ski.html" target="_blank">the Wrangells in Alaska</a> with our Alaskan partners at Wild Alpine, so this summer we needed to follow that with something extra exciting. Of course, we scheduled a climbing trip to the Dolomites partnered with our friends at <a href="http://www.holimites.com/" target="_blank">Holimites</a>.</div>
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We enjoyed 6 outstanding days before inevitably getting shut down by a little weather, and in that time we managed a 2500 foot via ferrata (iron path) route and almost 50 pitches of technical rock climbing between 5.6 and 5.10, all while visiting WWI ruins, mountain huts, eating amazing food, and of course, enjoying some (ok a lot of) perfectly prepared cappuccinos. The pictures tell the story better than words...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warming up after a rainy 4 pitch climb up Torre Grande </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the 14 pitch classic Vinatzer Route on the 3rd Sella Tower</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bf3TKMCFPyw/UEDb5QhOeaI/AAAAAAAAGAI/Vv7u_zKCZ7s/s1600/P1020788.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bf3TKMCFPyw/UEDb5QhOeaI/AAAAAAAAGAI/Vv7u_zKCZ7s/s320/P1020788.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top of the 3rd Sella Tower</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dsgg-CKKtxA/UEDcSt_z1OI/AAAAAAAAGAQ/Fm6-FelHMW8/s1600/P1020790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dsgg-CKKtxA/UEDcSt_z1OI/AAAAAAAAGAQ/Fm6-FelHMW8/s320/P1020790.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit Register: "'I Want 2 Piss of Toast' Says Pizza Man"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ixu2sNvFgdE/UEDctIvzT2I/AAAAAAAAGAY/7V4-nJ5YXkg/s1600/P1020814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ixu2sNvFgdE/UEDctIvzT2I/AAAAAAAAGAY/7V4-nJ5YXkg/s400/P1020814.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South Ridge of Hexenstein. Major WWI military peak with a fortress on the top.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1JaAuRuacUM/UEDdKJNQbkI/AAAAAAAAGAg/yK36DHE-Ens/s1600/P1020830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1JaAuRuacUM/UEDdKJNQbkI/AAAAAAAAGAg/yK36DHE-Ens/s320/P1020830.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taylor was into Euro conversion vans.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IRhS-uO5EeI/UEDdYhguiRI/AAAAAAAAGAo/l6g_ORNrBYg/s1600/P1020848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IRhS-uO5EeI/UEDdYhguiRI/AAAAAAAAGAo/l6g_ORNrBYg/s320/P1020848.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dibona Hut</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bvodLlUMs4c/UEDdlRDgBMI/AAAAAAAAGAw/wz4xohUAGOk/s1600/P1020855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bvodLlUMs4c/UEDdlRDgBMI/AAAAAAAAGAw/wz4xohUAGOk/s320/P1020855.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gelato at the hut</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-noPjQYpu_nw/UEDd2RFUBKI/AAAAAAAAGA4/IC7uErHFL80/s1600/P1020857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-noPjQYpu_nw/UEDd2RFUBKI/AAAAAAAAGA4/IC7uErHFL80/s320/P1020857.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our second night warranted a swig of the hutkeepers homemade Grappa.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Slu4HHqNArI/UEDeKGzf0EI/AAAAAAAAGBA/BJwU_64zdOI/s1600/P1020861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Slu4HHqNArI/UEDeKGzf0EI/AAAAAAAAGBA/BJwU_64zdOI/s640/P1020861.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach to Tofana de Rozes. We climbed the First Buttress, the sharp one with sun hitting the very top of it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--0Tb6blyfLw/UEDepZfPTLI/AAAAAAAAGBI/M0qC92cP6Qs/s1600/P1020866.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--0Tb6blyfLw/UEDepZfPTLI/AAAAAAAAGBI/M0qC92cP6Qs/s640/P1020866.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some anchors can be made acceptable with a little rigging...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ryhwqoEkHF4/UEDfD_S_rEI/AAAAAAAAGBQ/qHM0tq2NAAk/s1600/P1020869.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ryhwqoEkHF4/UEDfD_S_rEI/AAAAAAAAGBQ/qHM0tq2NAAk/s400/P1020869.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and some cannot. Italian humor.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w4Iw86YSHN4/UEDfaRZbpII/AAAAAAAAGBY/Qbz-s1vm6yw/s1600/P1020872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w4Iw86YSHN4/UEDfaRZbpII/AAAAAAAAGBY/Qbz-s1vm6yw/s400/P1020872.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loving it about 250 meters up the Tofana route.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w3pw08Ad5OI/UEDfvYFF6BI/AAAAAAAAGBg/WlET74WLwjI/s1600/P1020876.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w3pw08Ad5OI/UEDfvYFF6BI/AAAAAAAAGBg/WlET74WLwjI/s400/P1020876.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Awesome.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HpgWHtHWhW8/UEDgFnUYyiI/AAAAAAAAGBo/zdV3k-HhxvE/s1600/P1020882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HpgWHtHWhW8/UEDgFnUYyiI/AAAAAAAAGBo/zdV3k-HhxvE/s640/P1020882.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High in the Dolimites.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nqwAlWfp8NU/UEDgd3yuxJI/AAAAAAAAGBw/_XSgmogud3w/s1600/P1020894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nqwAlWfp8NU/UEDgd3yuxJI/AAAAAAAAGBw/_XSgmogud3w/s320/P1020894.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giussani Hut</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mjrtKgfUs8/UEDhCjBfNuI/AAAAAAAAGB4/HNXwAbEoF04/s1600/P1020907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mjrtKgfUs8/UEDhCjBfNuI/AAAAAAAAGB4/HNXwAbEoF04/s400/P1020907.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traverse of the Falzarego Towers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EochcJkXols/UEDhYGXfhxI/AAAAAAAAGCA/zCK2DiexrhQ/s1600/P1020913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EochcJkXols/UEDhYGXfhxI/AAAAAAAAGCA/zCK2DiexrhQ/s400/P1020913.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Made it down for cappuccino just before the rain.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cfX9_b9Darg/UEDhp03e6XI/AAAAAAAAGCI/MT7MMjgVNRU/s1600/P1020915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cfX9_b9Darg/UEDhp03e6XI/AAAAAAAAGCI/MT7MMjgVNRU/s320/P1020915.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taylor haggles for a van</td></tr>
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Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-55310414748015247392012-08-22T11:16:00.002-07:002012-08-22T11:16:43.727-07:00Mammoth to Yosemite Fastpacking<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of the sayings I often find myself using is, "There is more than one way to skin a cat." Aside from the obvious negative imagery this may conjure up it does have real application in many of the activities that we offer at Sierra Mountain Guides (SMG). In this case it relates directly to a fundamental methodology regarding how we use, travel, and enjoy the backcountry. This summer I had the opportunity to tag along on the first day of a Mammoth to Yosemite Fastpacking trip. This "cat" can be skinned a number of ways. We chose to travel light, efficiently, well planned, and well packed. This allowed our crew to travel the roughly 42 miles in three days instead of the more common 5-8 days. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LlHOSsyKtBs/UDUO6pKkcSI/AAAAAAAAF70/rT-RfuCAGzI/s1600/IMG_0101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LlHOSsyKtBs/UDUO6pKkcSI/AAAAAAAAF70/rT-RfuCAGzI/s320/IMG_0101.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise on the trip.</td></tr>
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You might ask yourself what it takes to do a trip like this. The simple answer is <b>NOT MUCH</b>. When we are Fastpacking we are "skinning" any unnecessary items from our packs. This allows us to move without being weighed down by the more typical 30-50lbs you would have on a longer trip. You couple that with a Tuolumne resupply and your talking about 14 pound packs for a three day trip. That is one svelte cat. Skinning that weight allows you to move. You don't have to rush, run, hurry, or scurry. You are free to just move. You can cover ground. To get to that point it starts with thorough planning and preparation.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rnIxdn2jJ6I/UDUFqaVoM7I/AAAAAAAAF6w/ogDre277a4Q/s1600/trekking+055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rnIxdn2jJ6I/UDUFqaVoM7I/AAAAAAAAF6w/ogDre277a4Q/s320/trekking+055.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is SMG Lead Fastpacking Guide Jeff taking the time to plan and prepare the group for a successful trip.<br /></td></tr>
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When you are skinning the lbs. you have to consider everything. Truly, every ounce counts. You need to use lightweight gear. Your pack, pad, shelter, and bag and be reduced to a very light weight kit. At SMG we work with <a href="http://www.camp-usa.com/" target="_blank">CAMP USA</a> to accomplish those goals. They make some of the lightest and most functional gear in the world. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EPdCri8vX0c/UDUJDkqjdYI/AAAAAAAAF7E/_Jkz8f8N02k/s1600/IMG_0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EPdCri8vX0c/UDUJDkqjdYI/AAAAAAAAF7E/_Jkz8f8N02k/s320/IMG_0005.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here I am in the Orange <a href="http://www.camp-usa.com/products/apparel/magic-jacket-1668.asp" target="_blank">CAMP Magic jacket</a> (4.3oz!) I am also using the <a href="http://www.camp-usa.com/products/packs/m3-light-199504.asp" target="_blank">CAMP M3 Light</a> pack (1lb 12oz for 30 L!)</td></tr>
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In addition to your main gear, your selection of clothing, food, and extras is critical. I highly recommend to folks to take a critical look at their kits and figure out what is <b>REALLY</b> needed. That is different for everyone, but with a realistic approach to the time of year, weather forecast, and specific trip you should be able to get your three day pack in the 12-14lb range (that includes water).<div>
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We began our adventure at the Mammoth Mountain Inn and took the shuttle down to the Agnew Meadows high trail.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WlLOoi1SlBY/UDUOXfs2PcI/AAAAAAAAF7Y/0yCVOrXHP4I/s1600/trekking+058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WlLOoi1SlBY/UDUOXfs2PcI/AAAAAAAAF7Y/0yCVOrXHP4I/s320/trekking+058.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeff and crew waiting for the shuttle with Woolly in the background. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shuttle to Agnew<br /></td></tr>
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Once on the trail you don't have to be a rockstar athlete to cover ground. With a light pack it just isn't that bad to click off the miles. Depending on the trip you shouldn't have to carry much in the way of water. On this trip we used and gravity fed MSR filter for our group. That allowed us to easily fill up at water sources. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AyFKCGKNVjg/UDURKm3RB1I/AAAAAAAAF9U/RJglPCzDnW0/s1600/trekking+068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AyFKCGKNVjg/UDURKm3RB1I/AAAAAAAAF9U/RJglPCzDnW0/s320/trekking+068.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">h2o easy.</td></tr>
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Because you aren't running or bing crushed under the weight of a big pack you are able to take in the scenery, take lots of photos, and not miss the small things.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0w-yOK-WtzY/UDUOt7ZDIYI/AAAAAAAAF7s/XhCTnJJVMK4/s1600/trekking+063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0w-yOK-WtzY/UDUOt7ZDIYI/AAAAAAAAF7s/XhCTnJJVMK4/s320/trekking+063.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sierra Tiger Lilly</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the "Blow Down" from last November.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crew with Banner and Ritter in the background.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading to Thousand Island Lake with Banner in the back.</td></tr>
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As the miles tick by you don't get those tired shoulders, hips and feet. We were able to cruise along taking short breaks every hour or so and we still had time to enjoy a great lunch at Thousand island lake.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hsHhKwYMzrg/UDURvXUHIpI/AAAAAAAAF9w/hAS7BWg88bw/s1600/trekking+077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hsHhKwYMzrg/UDURvXUHIpI/AAAAAAAAF9w/hAS7BWg88bw/s320/trekking+077.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch spot on our first day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In many ways this trip has it all. High altitude lakes, peaks, deep valleys, and then to finish in Yosemite Valley is the icing on the cake. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6g4krqxBkCQ/UDUPC2CVdVI/AAAAAAAAF78/Bj4_SpBBTPs/s1600/IMG_0129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6g4krqxBkCQ/UDUPC2CVdVI/AAAAAAAAF78/Bj4_SpBBTPs/s320/IMG_0129.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just another Sierra (Range of Light) sunset.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6EhM9DWqlIc/UDUQT7jpGmI/AAAAAAAAF88/hGkOuNuE_S4/s1600/Image+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6EhM9DWqlIc/UDUQT7jpGmI/AAAAAAAAF88/hGkOuNuE_S4/s320/Image+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mmmmm.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-udLjCYMglq8/UDUSS7i53bI/AAAAAAAAF-E/acSJJ6mwy-s/s1600/trekking+084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-udLjCYMglq8/UDUSS7i53bI/AAAAAAAAF-E/acSJJ6mwy-s/s320/trekking+084.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruising on good trail.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E6k9UTh9csI/UDUPiakYvCI/AAAAAAAAF8Y/9dtgpQyHin0/s1600/IMG_0168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E6k9UTh9csI/UDUPiakYvCI/AAAAAAAAF8Y/9dtgpQyHin0/s320/IMG_0168.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down into the Valley on day 3</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eGlj0rDwk6s/UDUP9jp0Q3I/AAAAAAAAF8o/jlQoegDN5Hs/s1600/IMG_0191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eGlj0rDwk6s/UDUP9jp0Q3I/AAAAAAAAF8o/jlQoegDN5Hs/s320/IMG_0191.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day 3 in the Valley with smiles all around.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
All things being equal I would say that this "skinning" is the way to go. You could take the fat cat approach and carry the extra weight but for me Fastpacking is it. Thanks to Jeff and crew for a great trip!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzhG4U1YGOpIWqXCFyrXDClUa9iLFv21NvI1oYe5Kk3Y9gZuQZXX13wj7kq7NzP4rLIiQuoBYoIfThDNV8dDg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Here is a short video from this trip showing Fastpacking in action.</div>
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-Neil</div>
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Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-46742993588552862102012-08-10T12:27:00.003-07:002012-08-10T12:27:36.576-07:00Summery Summary, Part 2: Family Time!<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>More ramblings from Jed... Man, keep this guy in the mountains. He just won't shut up when he's in town.</i></span></div>
<br />
Some things come in binges! In June it was sweet alpine sending <a href="http://sierramountainguides.blogspot.com/2012/07/summery-summary-part-1.html">action</a>. Mid-July brought a ton of <a href="http://sierramountainguides.blogspot.com/2012/07/evolution-traverse-july-2012.html">traversing</a>. Now, since that Evolution Traverse, my guiding world has revolved around the theme of family time.<br />
<br />
First, and connecting the summer with a welcome continuity, is the ever-more popular and polished <a href="http://www.sierramtnguides.com/courses/Courses%20Tier%203/Rock/ESScramblers.htm">"Scramblers"</a> program. Barbara and Neil have worked together to set up an itinerary that shows kids everything that climbing is: ropes and bouldering, cracks and face, challenge and reward, frustration and elation, socialization and individual effort. What an honor it is for me to participate. These kids come with parents and siblings, and leave a part of the climbing family.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpU2_OJaWJAXrSJnMBn1M7JXZ9cCtSpiALVJzmexnzvQxp-qOc1qIRvWNTiYx8SS8o4Hjn5rcIL5hY75HxyfKwD-VS9_pRZFrt8Eml-8X4PGZ1XbMww4X50jyZ0srq0OTqI5THMTWfXk/s1600/Untitled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpU2_OJaWJAXrSJnMBn1M7JXZ9cCtSpiALVJzmexnzvQxp-qOc1qIRvWNTiYx8SS8o4Hjn5rcIL5hY75HxyfKwD-VS9_pRZFrt8Eml-8X4PGZ1XbMww4X50jyZ0srq0OTqI5THMTWfXk/s400/Untitled.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scramblers Bouldering Day. July 31, 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Then, in the first couple weeks of August I worked a continuous stretch of family-themed trips. First it was Neal and Sam W., from Chicago. Neal came on his own a few years ago, but quickly discovered the Sierra was too great to not share with 9 year old Sam. Neal and Sam have now returned twice to sample ever-more challenging climbing opportunities. This time we went to Hurd Peak.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbmhx7yXsB0dya1harbsTaMApnPKzaPucE8QWxcoySusa957glAfDHSxlcNCxifrgGBqomRAwWAtD_x0Nww-WNWSt5jiDVfTdvKLI1Co2iQjlbtPMt7AcZsYEONXa71WepbcGAW-JeXXY/s1600/P1100292.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbmhx7yXsB0dya1harbsTaMApnPKzaPucE8QWxcoySusa957glAfDHSxlcNCxifrgGBqomRAwWAtD_x0Nww-WNWSt5jiDVfTdvKLI1Co2iQjlbtPMt7AcZsYEONXa71WepbcGAW-JeXXY/s320/P1100292.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam and Neil on Hurd Peak. Our "secret", fish-filled lake below. </td></tr>
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<br />
Following Sam and Neal's trip, we booked an uncanny selection of trips. Three days, three trips, three families, each with three people. Each day we went to the Mammoth Lakes basin, each day was characterized by supportive family members trying and succeeding on new challenges. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmBbSZab_MC5egm9J41Aahz3eFLHL3sK3uDiTN70Q9yb_4sWeLAiZzzpnDgD_3AVUupyc1EG8ll9CBGZi6W1o0dDX11ufJ1cCClxZwe5SQQcms5GXCxRkZat-7k8vXeNG6hCKoqEyYXg/s1600/2012-08-05_12-37-04_202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmBbSZab_MC5egm9J41Aahz3eFLHL3sK3uDiTN70Q9yb_4sWeLAiZzzpnDgD_3AVUupyc1EG8ll9CBGZi6W1o0dDX11ufJ1cCClxZwe5SQQcms5GXCxRkZat-7k8vXeNG6hCKoqEyYXg/s640/2012-08-05_12-37-04_202.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horseshoe Slab. My favorite place to take new climbers!</td></tr>
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Finally, my most recent trip at first appeared like a "typical" 1:1 alpine climb. Ana booked to come out from Virginia to climb the East Buttress of Whitney. Unbeknownst to me, traveling with her to support her the whole way, was her entire family. Her husband and two teenage girls accompanied her to Lone Pine and cheered (via text) us up the peak. Weather didn't cooperate for the East Buttress (I mean, it rained on us at 4 am on summit day. wtf?) but we quickly adapted to the Mountaineers Route. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ZwHpzm6A8Pp5rq7Td13Ys__LV1sja6i_Rm_MpRxI6W4y6wGW6dwaY1HNygiTN_Td3dhtdsy99PyhfEPVvpdl4jC-fgUGnPNOLJlnkByLj1nAtK3qo-l0CtswWkd2h5dlTFFpXI51nBQ/s1600/P1100308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ZwHpzm6A8Pp5rq7Td13Ys__LV1sja6i_Rm_MpRxI6W4y6wGW6dwaY1HNygiTN_Td3dhtdsy99PyhfEPVvpdl4jC-fgUGnPNOLJlnkByLj1nAtK3qo-l0CtswWkd2h5dlTFFpXI51nBQ/s640/P1100308.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">some knobs, a lake, the sky, a mom</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-10799562129462443332012-08-02T10:16:00.001-07:002012-08-02T10:17:15.923-07:00Wedding Anniversary with Peter Croft<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
How to celebrate a wedding anniversary??? A day out with Peter Croft, perfect! Betsy was
originally interested in Charlotte Dome, but after a few discussions
everyone decided the best route for the special day should be The Third
Pillar of Mt. Dana. This is a classic climb on amazing white granite.
Read more on <a href="http://westcoastflyingadventures.com/2012/07/30/climbing-the-third-pillar-of-mt-dana/" target="_blank">Betsy and Ney's Blog</a>, for their full experience.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vUaNjE2nrV8/UBq1osuLi8I/AAAAAAAAF50/bQy2ki3LZ9w/s1600/bets-peter-howie-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vUaNjE2nrV8/UBq1osuLi8I/AAAAAAAAF50/bQy2ki3LZ9w/s400/bets-peter-howie-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Betsy climbing, photo: Ney G. </div>
</div>Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-32594993498565927182012-07-26T10:25:00.000-07:002012-07-26T10:25:18.839-07:00CAMP- Go Light Go Fast<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><strong><span style="color: #000033;">CURRENT ALPINE ROCK CONDITIONS UPDATE </span></strong><span style="color: #000033;"><br /> By Blake Herrington</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Are
you ready for Alpine Rock season? July is nearly gone and the days are
already getting shorter. But with the sun still high in the sky and very
low snowpacks from a dismal winter in many prime mountain areas, the
time is perfect for long alpine rock climbs. Many of the nation's
premier alpine venues are perfect right now, but here's a
region-specific roundup to help you plan your trip... </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi36PmbQLslPfGa5i0Q9YyBqtVpDSr5BxoyHsIMrEp8xk6FQnUFNJ3XvSdzwbEv1p9X8hQi9_p27STUX0vaHdcvQVYaXugPlwYHkGOxhOE5iAzkWoB_S3reTOvsBS2qrMDEBNJHqmcBj7P8bIuwPKkapU8uJfXb4SrR7uL4FIG8CWag==" target="_blank"><strong>READ MORE</strong></a></span></td> </tr>
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<tr> <td align="left" valign="top"><a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi35JW5BLcAL79wsmuV3Ry2TJ4_2YNS9CKwnnza3-T3KZuQBRKpADlJnXYzfIsC3uHtWUQeJkEl7iYWP7bu-jNwaX3QEfW6K6_t2WiUMap_nziFKqCnlLKFZ2njo9C3bR9Pxnq0d-ZVv8bKvi8jnhLHdtNVWmZN1mqq7hQLAtwHVqwg==" target="_blank"><img alt="Phantom Pack" border="0" height="414" src="http://www.camp-usa.com/e-news/consumer/2012/July/packscale-%281%29.jpg" width="600" /></a></td> </tr>
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<tr> <td><span style="color: #000033; font-size: x-small;"><strong>LIGHTWEIGHT. PHANTOM PACK.</strong></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The <a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi34kgMHqlFvX5a2nMluApighWvCZ8c7QZGkKVgfAEU0Mkzn1F89JJ8ZBx9Mzl36X9u4EQlK3Mo6KiPZ7U0TD2JZJbKVqqaC1QB-3MtkSAdkA4DcKVDRy0rBOpcKZO2zNFpc-cB-f8mx7ZWFhXih0DH4O" target="_blank"><strong>Phantom</strong></a>
is a fully featured pack designed for alpine blitzes in all types of
terrain and conditions. It is a universal favorite for our athletes who
range in disciplines from alpine rock climbing where it excels as a
lightweight on-route pack to light & fast peak baggers where it
registers as about the lightest rig possible for carrying a light axe,
crampons, layers and sustenance for a romp at altitude. The basic design
is simple: 15 liters to carry that perfect amount of just enough, but
not too much... </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi35JW5BLcAL79wsmuV3Ry2TJ4_2YNS9CKwnnza3-T3KZuQBRKpADlJnXYzfIsC3uHtWUQeJkEl7iYWP7bu-jNwaX3QEfW6K6_t2WiUMap_nziFKqCnlLKFZ2njo9C3bR9Pxnq0d-ZVv8bKvi8jnhLHdtNVWmZN1mqq7hQLAtwHVqwg==" target="_blank"><strong>READ MORE</strong></a></span></td> </tr>
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<tr> <td align="left" valign="top" width="400"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><strong><span style="color: #000033;">MONTHLY GEAR GIVE AWAY</span></strong></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">In
honor of Justin Lichter (aka Trauma), we are giving away a Phantom pack
– a product that truly embodies the light & fast minimalist ethic
being driven by the world's most prolific through-hiker – and a copy of
his new book, 'Trail Tested: A Thru-Hiker's Insights Into Hiking &
Backpacking,' that was released in May of 2012 and contains more
applicable tips and tricks than any book we have ever read on the
subject. For a complete review, see our post from May 14 <a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi34sFeoC0sOrl20BclQgo81i2qeKqbZgZJhezA0FM_LgyzJQWCB6x4vV5Tcy90GSlPSGQr-7cLhqNJHvB7GAgI4cNh1gZXYCmgBHDcIkY3ZiicMTT4o9SOt9f3NNDRNNXBM_SR_m7JzCYWCLQvoCQqIrZypXXX8wEMQiB3BP9FxZlkXEdku66PfSt2yRGL5HxFtavkDqjk2cWxK_mE6HDAvP" target="_blank"><strong>HERE</strong></a>.</span> <br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Congratulations to last month's winner, Doug, who won a <strong><a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi36E-MOMvqubHHDdKWVM_X2sgp9TiIcFPx9puX1-TjvCcZAhvVcpikNYb7vjsovbRK7GJFSj3-HCgED975srs6dqMzxqzheH0_4HRdrdrnjzjmnE1vLh9aG7RQYPD0VWgicPXLIAONXoQ48JLRKByTZ1J6IricYJDUJR2dIByMmqjjRHlDY1u51_" target="_blank">Laser CR</a></strong> harness from Cassin; our newest laminate construction big mountain harness. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">As a CAMP USA E-News subscriber, you are automatically entered in the monthly gear drawing. Tell your friends and good luck!</span> </td> <td width="0"> </td> <td align="center" valign="top" width="200"><a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi34sFeoC0sOrl20BclQgo81i2qeKqbZgZJhezA0FM_LgyzJQWCB6x4vV5Tcy90GSlPSGQr-7cLhqNJHvB7GAgI4cNh1gZXYCmgBHDcIkY3ZiicMTT4o9SOt9f3NNDRNNXBM_SR_m7JzCYWCLQvoCQqIrZypXXX8wEMQiB3BP9FxZlkXEdku66PfSt2yRGL5HxFtavkDqjk2cWxK_mE6HDAvP" target="_blank"><img alt="Trail Tested: A Thru-Hikers Insights into Hiking & Backpacking" border="0" height="187" src="http://www.camp-usa.com/e-news/consumer/2012/July/TrailTested.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<img alt="Phantom pack" height="187" src="http://www.camp-usa.com/e-news/consumer/2012/July/Phantom.jpg" width="200" /><br />
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<tr> <td align="left" valign="top"><span style="color: #000033; font-size: xx-small;">DISCLAIMER</span> <br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">For any questions always refer to the C.A.M.P. USA website <a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi37WnG2163Jhimv0u7C2xExn38mzIMosbbEXrAKAEyGx8Y97xe6VYRbE-D3u934NncRPi6U1d5WH7youVqCzv2Gm5UG1UrafFnPlzZT0KtzTEA==" target="_blank">http://www.camp-usa.com/</a>, C.A.M.P. Italy’s website <a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi378QOiwbhzMp3c7rDDCRyOGSBkmUNpB5h_I8fUydgUZqS_lNWpbTKrpc76UrkQ6wD0y34Fpdv_j3oEJrOoRYEizGEOxwIHygO4=" target="_blank">http://www.camp.it/</a>. For reference to any manufacturing or fall standards refer to the UIAA website <a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi37ABcWDnHrYY-6OMH9cEDiUUWlSFiHB_DpNLgZXVAlu6TovxFM_mMmTLMlOUV7oKYs4irnC9tpeG1mO9OH-dhQDIzTE-b9vUNocWf7XFvm-hg==" target="_blank">http://www.theuiaa.org/</a>.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?e=0013IR52_OOi37cAVx-alynGXfVCHYq4mCHzcd9YBa5aiJ-15Iqtnydqy3b-i5JTFx9jxXMuvtJpcYmO_z-oxwC6ENnMupJcpNSX2EuIWOXof0htlRzYuyNfWrbFPfnZGFodHWAQivadro=" target="_blank">Warning</a>:
Climbing is dangerous. It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser
or user of any C.A.M.P. technical adventure equipment to get proper
instruction and to act safely and in accordance with the uses and
specifications outlined by C.A.M.P. in its product literature. It is
your responsibility to learn how to use the product safely. Product
instruction manuals are available for download on all relevant product
pages. If you have any questions about the specific function of a piece
of climbing equipment, contact C.A.M.P. USA before use.</span></td> </tr>
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</div>Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-86931470925706404232012-07-21T14:44:00.001-07:002012-07-30T17:28:05.457-07:00Evolution Traverse, July 2012<h4 style="text-align: center;">
"When will I stop doing the hardest thing I have ever done?" </h4>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
Jon A., July 2012, high in the Evolution Peaks.</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguh5jJL7vbXq-Zu1L2NPeQA7jD0lqnWc44Mc4VTpopwf95-ULW4T0sXSHGCD1RmQvmthd54z-YvrbyHw9-H_svtxjxmvUUibQXk0IGmuh1Up0FTk2jtUL1h7fwYJzA8aIjWfFQA5gzUOc/s1600/horizontal+panorama.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="82" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguh5jJL7vbXq-Zu1L2NPeQA7jD0lqnWc44Mc4VTpopwf95-ULW4T0sXSHGCD1RmQvmthd54z-YvrbyHw9-H_svtxjxmvUUibQXk0IGmuh1Up0FTk2jtUL1h7fwYJzA8aIjWfFQA5gzUOc/s640/horizontal+panorama.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Evolution Traverse (VI 5.9) as seen from its final peak.</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">That is a great question for any of us! What ever possesses us to do these things? Needless to say, Jon does not shirk from challenge. We have already </span><a href="http://sierramountainguides.blogspot.com/2012/06/palisade-traverse-june-2012.html" style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">expounded</a><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"> on his prodigious apetite for facing big endeavors with a hard-core work ethic and tough-to-the-soul grit. Jon's self-awareness, the detachment that allows him to question these things, does nothing to make these efforts less intense. For an athlete, the Evolution Traverse is little more than rocks and weather and effort. For the more philosophical type, tackling the big questions through climbing heightens the experience to nearly life-altering status. What's not to love about heightening an experience?! </span></div>
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In any case, words and pictures, this soon after an event of this magnitude, do little to capture it all. That being said, here you are. looking. Check us out, and stay tuned as Jon and I "process" all this (not to mention eat and sleep and socialize). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjyKbtdncZI7I1waS2MmYjpoYa6ZVNEAam1Ui1CCBDTblxsiCXQV_A5cbt1K3O7HRKpMvwQAmM0CpgmU2F5sCshkHnRi2jZLsHzS55E25Cu9LQGO0_6m2bgXUfwD8_hblHfJ26Pa3YuU/s1600/2012-07-17_08-33-56_390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjyKbtdncZI7I1waS2MmYjpoYa6ZVNEAam1Ui1CCBDTblxsiCXQV_A5cbt1K3O7HRKpMvwQAmM0CpgmU2F5sCshkHnRi2jZLsHzS55E25Cu9LQGO0_6m2bgXUfwD8_hblHfJ26Pa3YuU/s640/2012-07-17_08-33-56_390.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early on the route, partway up Mt. Gould</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSHveMIhEhRcC50FBjQpFnsQYD-e7m5cckwpUqoi_lXYwMFXyMPNbNwQfnkSlc0SStiYcY7VtwDw2r3MnJ0nUCiWTn-8YO9uvdt0SzIKsnU1r5CwsdALlSlpAaO6EFJu7hvd7gYa4rSek/s1600/2012-07-17_20-15-20_937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSHveMIhEhRcC50FBjQpFnsQYD-e7m5cckwpUqoi_lXYwMFXyMPNbNwQfnkSlc0SStiYcY7VtwDw2r3MnJ0nUCiWTn-8YO9uvdt0SzIKsnU1r5CwsdALlSlpAaO6EFJu7hvd7gYa4rSek/s640/2012-07-17_20-15-20_937.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Darwin Summit campsite.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo5TyCnbgWx6NuusmGL_6mMmWrqLSZpanDV4iNuFHfP3Qql_iz_n5loO_1vlYdjw2jpaWNPEAMGwHIXiMjDJRbhXiBkmPhPkgUrNKc870wMOn0PEtvHMalIakk2PpGUj3mrNmc8NEgIC8/s1600/2012-07-19_07-41-17_335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo5TyCnbgWx6NuusmGL_6mMmWrqLSZpanDV4iNuFHfP3Qql_iz_n5loO_1vlYdjw2jpaWNPEAMGwHIXiMjDJRbhXiBkmPhPkgUrNKc870wMOn0PEtvHMalIakk2PpGUj3mrNmc8NEgIC8/s640/2012-07-19_07-41-17_335.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day 3, foul weather threatens. You know you're on a big route when just part of it is getting rained on.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLujmaWF1G-g8dh2Qs34SYkLzjP0alIKN7fZRvyHRF1Q3h-ooV-KmlUM3nXfg-tpJ_fdaN9MLqbJRkRNhWI4W_Vw8f55kIXFXkgSeUUfeuDRgmshipm6d10xv6v1qFJBWfDmVMQ5ARdGU/s1600/2012-07-19_11-08-30_187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLujmaWF1G-g8dh2Qs34SYkLzjP0alIKN7fZRvyHRF1Q3h-ooV-KmlUM3nXfg-tpJ_fdaN9MLqbJRkRNhWI4W_Vw8f55kIXFXkgSeUUfeuDRgmshipm6d10xv6v1qFJBWfDmVMQ5ARdGU/s640/2012-07-19_11-08-30_187.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Movement is the name of the game. Constant movement...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNldOOBlnlIo6vbWkmIimA-qwoNZie91uvwomwkr0TImgwRVP3SDGut66maCoN79WndHuKcMBtTSpyAMekjS1Fu0E_B65wTRboqaBLc-1sReA_w4CiUkPWjJ4BHSWX0UiQngVyFVUyrsk/s1600/2012-07-19_16-38-52_242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNldOOBlnlIo6vbWkmIimA-qwoNZie91uvwomwkr0TImgwRVP3SDGut66maCoN79WndHuKcMBtTSpyAMekjS1Fu0E_B65wTRboqaBLc-1sReA_w4CiUkPWjJ4BHSWX0UiQngVyFVUyrsk/s400/2012-07-19_16-38-52_242.jpg" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"How many peaks have we climbed?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_dkOBdMZlWWRUA5crx7v2-B04drIf5n68-Q-96gmsrYuiACayTeoxi1P-DavTFNhow0XTnMvhxSJLYL7BV199k9skXZ3fGl_DhYTDnmMiCEmccSAH4DSviQDk0SqKDR1gezPsMMnXN0g/s1600/2012-07-19_19-09-11_248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_dkOBdMZlWWRUA5crx7v2-B04drIf5n68-Q-96gmsrYuiACayTeoxi1P-DavTFNhow0XTnMvhxSJLYL7BV199k9skXZ3fGl_DhYTDnmMiCEmccSAH4DSviQDk0SqKDR1gezPsMMnXN0g/s640/2012-07-19_19-09-11_248.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You don't know how good green grass can look and feel and smell. Cruising in "the glow" down at Evolution Lake<br />
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<b>A week later, now... (July 30, 2012)</b></div>
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Jon and I are still recovering and adapting. Physical repercussions continue to manifest. "<a href="http://www.jediahporter.com/2012/07/evolution-traverse-parts-4-5-and-6.html">Processing</a>" what this route means continues. I am spinning my legs and lungs at about 60% of capacity. Jon's fingers are delaminating in a big way. My laundry just got washed this morning. Jon's enthusiastic and hyperbolic characterizations of the value of this adventure we shared demonstrate a mind clearly still addled by the altitude. </div>
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<div class="p1">
"you gave me an adventure of a lifetime...you ever need to be bailed out of jail or 'get rid' of a body just call, I owe you one" -The ever-quotable Jon A. July 30, 2012</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-65051948362444941492012-07-15T10:14:00.000-07:002012-07-15T16:20:33.999-07:00Summery Summary, Part 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">SMG guide </span></i><i style="background-color: white;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Jed Porter </span></i><i style="background-color: white;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">expounds on his diverse guiding experiences from Summer 2012 to date. Enjoy!</span></i><br />
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How do <i>you</i> measure Summer? Someone once decided that the longest day of the year marks the start of summer. Summer partiers count July 4 as their kickoff. Sierra climbers watch the snow-line retreat and mix in a little consideration to the monsoonal thunderstorm forecast and come up with their own definition entirely. By the latter algorithm, we've already had a couple months of summer up here. This particular Sierra Mountain Guide has been out and about, covering dry ground and making the most of a relatively quiet (until just recently...) electrical weather forecast. This first big round of rain and lightning is the perfect turning point at which to do a little catch-up and reflection. Let us begin this recollection just after Memorial Day.<br />
<br />
The last day of May, Howie, Neil and I went out on a huge day to scout a more efficient and safe way to negotiate a big new SMG endeavor. Howie did some more <a href="http://sierramountainguides.blogspot.com/2012/07/evolution-half-traverse-with-glen-plake.html">scouting</a> more recently. Stay tuned...<br />
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On the first of June Thomas G. and I did the big and neo-classic SE Face of Mt. Emerson. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High on Emerson.</td></tr>
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SMG all-stars Chad B and John W and I knocked out a traverse of Mt. Russell-in-A-Day (MiRAD? Well, am I?) Check out about a gazillion of Chad's <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4057521316990.2170572.1250843160&type=3">pictures</a>.<br />
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Jon A and I traversed the Palisades and documented it <a href="http://sierramountainguides.blogspot.com/2012/06/palisade-traverse-june-2012.html">here </a>and here:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/43709015" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/43709015">Palisades Traverse</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user8219855">Jon Arlien</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
Most of us Sierra Mountain Guides got together in mid-June to "train". Mainly we heckled each other, hassled Howie's 1 year old, Cosmo, and roasted in the sun. We did some good rescue skills and procedures review and had some great technical discussions. We are all better guides for it.<br />
<br />
On two separate trips, Brian S. and Sean M. joined me for some customized rock instruction. These guys each took forward leaps in their climbing abilities and confidence. To their credit, each of these dudes came in with a fair to considerable prior experience. Soliciting professional oversight and conjuring the humility to receive that mentorship has done each of them a great service. <br />
<br />
Jeff B. came down from Alberta, CA to climb on our solid rock and sunny skies. His first impression of climbing here, distilled when I suggested we meet at a relatively relaxing 8am, was casual yet athletic. In the end, I think he left with the same impression. Good rock, good weather, huge relief! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeff near the top of the North Ridge of Independence Peak. "Well, in Canada..."</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak. "... we may have helis and huts and such. But the Sierra kicks ass, eh?"</td></tr>
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Well-representing his home-country, Jeff can hang with the best of our rock jocks all while talking wistfully of skiing the Caribou Traverse, the Haute Route ("A few trips over there") and what seemed like about 8 "annual" mountain trips. Over our three days together, Jeff managed to give a virtual tour of interior Canada's (and beyond) incredible mountain landscape, humbly painting a picture of a balanced mountain-filled life: </div>
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"Yeah, I try and do a big tenting ski traverse each year." </div>
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"Well, my buddies and I go to the Asulkan Cabin every year". </div>
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"Yeah, my kids love this stuff. Usually it's a ski trip, but last year we went kayaking in Baja for a couple weeks". </div>
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"This convention each year in San Diego gives me a chance to tour the Southwest on my own. Last year it was Snow Creek on San Jacinto." </div>
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"One of our crew usually wins the Fairy Meadows Hut lottery. This year we have two weeks there". </div>
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How the heck does this guy do it? Inspiring!</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">You want inspiring? Tess F. came out from, of all places, Ohio to celebrate her high school graduation with four days in the Whitney zone. If Jeff can reflect on a long and <span style="background-color: white;">impassioned mountain life (with much more to come), Tess can look forward to the same. She's got that "spark" and the focus to pull off big things with aplomb. Tess has been climbing for a little over a year. She took an accelerated version of the modern climber's progression: Climbing gym, outdoor course, job at the gym, lead outdoors, multi-pitch course, lead multi-pitch (Her outdoor experience is from well-known Seneca Rocks in West Virginia), and then here to the Sierra for an alpine introduction. </span></span></div>
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</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><span style="background-color: white;">We approached, fished, bouldered, sent the East Buttress of Whitney and the Fishhook Arete (with a descent of the East Ridge), all in 4 days. We had some cold and wind and tons of high-altitude time. Tess pulled it all off without a struggle. From the moment we left Whitney Portal, every step up was a new altitude record for her. Just awesome!</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Granite, water, desert, sliver of snow. East Buttress, Mt. Whitney.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Granite, water, desert, sliver of snow. East Ridge, Mt. Russell</td></tr>
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Next up, without any pictures unfortunately, was an attempt at ticking off the classic Evolution Loop Trek. Kim and Sean came out for a vacation. When it turned out that the full loop, given their intense travel schedule and a death in the family and the altitude, would be a bit much, we quickly and smoothly adapted. We did some camping, some day-hikes, some fishing, and some rock-climbing. Now that's a vacation!<br />
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Speaking of vacation, and summer, the SMG kids programs (<a href="http://www.sierramtnguides.com/courses/Courses%20Tier%203/Rock/ESScramblers.htm">Scramblers</a> and the <i>new </i>Senders) present an opportunity for young visitors and residents of the Eastern Sierra to participate in that summer vacation <a href="http://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/109/notes-on-camp">"rite of passage"</a>. Summer camp has it's own distinct feel. You remember that, right? While a summer camp might offer some specialty skill or fit some genre (music, camping, wilderness, "sleep-away", etc. Our offering is rock climbing, duh!), to me the distinct summer camp feel is the sense of playful relaxation that is unparalleled anywhere else. Fortunately, this carefree feeling is accessible to participants and staff alike. Sure, we all work hard, whether it's staff setting up ropes at 6am and keeping "the-head-on-a-swivel" 'til 4 or "campers" trying yet another hard climb. But we also play hard, conjuring that essential sense of buoyant whimsy. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barbara (with the bucket) and Jed (behind the camera) "working" hard. What feels like summer more than clingy wet clothes after a hot dusty day?</td></tr>
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Finally, bringing us to this arbitrarily chosen summer "mid-point", I just finished a 6-day custom itinerary with John B. (what is it with Jo[h]ns and Seans this summer?) </div>
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Our week together shook out like this:</div>
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Day 1: Hike to 3rd Lake</div>
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Day 2: Venusian Blind Arete on Temple Crag. "The biggest rock climb I have ever done!"</div>
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Day 3: Move camp up toward Glacier</div>
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Day 4: Swiss Arete, Mount Sill. "My best day in the mountains ever!"</div>
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Day 5: Exit, with a swim in 4th Lake. "The best beer I have ever had" ;-)</div>
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Day 6: Crystal Crag. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic view of a classic pitch on a classic route in classic conditions. With the classic reaction: "Damn, that was big!" Venusian, Temple, Sierra, CA, USA.</td></tr>
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Whew, eh?</div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-80445482545925267042012-07-12T15:51:00.003-07:002012-07-12T15:51:53.205-07:00"Evolution Half-traverse" with Glen Plake<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--FyYqWFWtJo/T_86VH1nUNI/AAAAAAAAF30/h2I187igcHQ/s1600/Evo-Ridge-pano.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="176" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--FyYqWFWtJo/T_86VH1nUNI/AAAAAAAAF30/h2I187igcHQ/s640/Evo-Ridge-pano.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Evolution Ridge near sunset</td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eJh3UXjLCeM/T_87kCkMOmI/AAAAAAAAF38/0k7ZWAmfW5A/s1600/41TZXXAHMFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eJh3UXjLCeM/T_87kCkMOmI/AAAAAAAAF38/0k7ZWAmfW5A/s200/41TZXXAHMFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg" width="126" /></a>The Evolution Traverse is an impressive length of continuous ridge on the Sierra Crest not far from Bishop, CA. It features an aesthetic wilderness setting, spectacular climbing on the very crest of the ridge, and reasonably solid alpine granite for much of the way. Peter Croft called it "...the best traverse I have done." in his Sierra rock climbing guidebook. He first ran the complete ridge in 1999 by himself. Since then there have been less than 20 complete traverses by some calculations. Not surprising given the length and remoteness of the ridge, but a little surprising since the climbing aesthetics really are quite a bit better than many other alpine ridges in the range.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solid granite on Mt. Warlow</td></tr>
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To complete this ridge requires high-level fitness, solid alpine rock climbing skill, as well as light and fast backcountry gear and technique. Croft, and most others after him, have sent the ridge in a single big effort with no bivies, from a camp at Darwin Bench. To do this generally involves climbing ropeless for nearly, or entirely, all of the ridge. Not all climbers are willing to take that risk for themselves. Some bring the weight of a small cord and a very lightweight harness for rappels, to avoid soloing some challenging downclimbing. Most have gone without bivy gear and committing to the full distance, or possibly opting off the ridge early if out of daylight. <a href="http://www.jediahporter.com/2011/09/whatever-whatever-that-summit-of-mt.html" target="_blank">Jed Porter</a>, one of our guides, has been spending some time up there lately. He and his partner Alex showed that using common guiding rope management techniques it was possible to protect many of the most challenging and exposed climbing sections with a rope and minimal climbing hardware. SMG started offering the Evo Traverse this year on a custom basis as an advanced guided climb, which means it will be roped for maximum safety on all technical sections.<br />
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It takes a lot of skill and experience to traverse the Evolution Ridge, guided or unguided. That doesn't mean that you can't opt to bite off a bit less of it in order to experience the majestic location, scenery, and aesthetic climbing it has to offer.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glen Plake beneath Mt. Haeckel</td></tr>
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Famous ski athlete, and international ambassador to the sport, Glen Plake (yes, a friend who put extreme mohawk skiing on the map in the 80's) and I went out for a little mountain romp and found that the "Evolution Half-Traverse" is a way worthy outing to consider if you are up for a lighter version of the original Croft itinerary. Here are the details:<br />
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<li>About 3.5 miles of ridge line from Haeckel Col to Mt. Huxley. This avoids the crux section of the full Evolution Traverse, just south of Mt. Darwin, but some would argue that it features the best rock climbing sections in terms of aesthetics and rock quality.</li>
<li>First, bring some excellent mountain fitness, prior acclimatization, climbing skills of around solid 5.9, and solid rope management skill and climbing systems application (if you choose to use a rope).</li>
<li>Have some prior mileage on exposed, technical alpine rock ridges to improve routefinding and comfort in exposed terrain.</li>
<li>Have backcountry camping experience, but also the ability to go light and fast, and take care of yourselves (stay warm, fed and hydrated) overnight with a minimalist bivouac kit.</li>
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We did this as a trailhead to trailhead 2-day summer trip which was fun, and recommended for some, but I suggest to consider going for 3 or 4 days to make it more comfortable and reasonable, without any more ridge climbing weight. The full Evo Traverse generally takes 3-5 days roundtrip to trailhead with 1-3 days on the ridge, versus this itinerary at 2-4 days with 1-2 days on the ridge.</div>
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<u><b>Recommended Itinerary: 3 or 4 days</b></u></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haeckel Col</td></tr>
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<b>Day 1</b> - Hike in from Sabrina Lake trailhead to the alpine lake just below Haeckel Col (Lake 12345). there is a beautiful sandy campsite just north of the lake. The approach can be done either up through Midnight Lake or from Hungry Packer Lake finding the line of weakness and some class 3-4 on ledges that lead up to the cirque above.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near Mt. Fiske</td></tr>
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<b>Day 2</b> - Decide if you wan to try to do a big 1 day blast or 2 days on the ridge. This will make a big difference in what you carry and climbing strategy. Most 1 day climbers will be comfortable soloing the majority of the ridge, which will save time. Be prepared for a total of around 8-20+ hours of ridge travel for the full distance. You will have to know enough about your own individual or team climbing speed to anticipate whether to go for it in a single push or a 2-day climb. Obviously, going as a 2-day requires a heavier pack and will slow things down considerably. That said, 2 days can still mean a light load in the Sierra. The slower speed and security of having the ability to spend the night as needed is refreshing, and the ambience of a night on the ridge is unforgettable.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Mt. Warlow</td></tr>
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Mt. Haeckel is a delightful 4th class romp. After that it gets pretty non-technical with lots of class 2-3 and some looser sections, until the ridge turns southwest toward Mt. Fiske. On the entire traverse be sure to stay as close to the ridge as seems practical. When you see an easy, obvious sidewalk around complicated gendarmes, it makes sense to take it. Otherwise, stay right on the ridge crest as much as possible. There you will generally find the most solid rock, the most exposed and beautiful climbing, and plenty of good juggy handholds and cracks. The best bivy spots are just East of Mt. Fiske, many of which hold snow for melt in early season, and some even late into the summer. Just east of the Fiske summit is a big plateau with tons of awesome sandy spots that are as comfy any alpine bivy site can be. This is also a good stopping point for breaking up the effort into 2 days.</div>
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If doing the entire "half-traverse" in a day combine Day 2 & 3 as described here.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On Mt. Warlow</td></tr>
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<b>Day 3</b> - continue over Fiske to Warlow. The Fiske-Warlow col to the summit of Warlow is the highlight. A nice long section of rising ridge traverse on excellent granite. Again, stay on the crest or risk missing the best climbing. The ridge to Huxley is super fun, and the ridge that ascends to the peak has some of the most fun climbing on the entire ridge. After the summit of Mt. Huxley, continue north on the ridge, past the first gully to the west that you can see from the summit. Look for cairns that mark the ridge entrance to one of 2 descent gullies. The gully to the left of the ridge is probably a bit easier to get into than than the one on the right, but either go with some loose, steep scree sliding.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mt. Huxley</td></tr>
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At the bottom of the gully, there are options for getting into the Sapphire Lake basin. Beware that the north facing gullies hold snow from the winter. Unless you have crampons and ice axes (because it is early season), we recommend either descending the small gully that starts at 11,400, assuming there is no unavoidable snow in it, through talus. Or, alternatively, play it safe by descending gently west to the John Muir Trail. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Either way, cross country east up the drainage west of Mt. Haeckel. Haeckel Col is accessed via a surprisingly stable scree gully just left of a major slabby granite cirque. Pass below the giant chimney to the right (class 3) to a stable talus field. Aim just left of the rounded rock outcrop on the ridge and you will arrive at the ideal spot on Haeckel Col. Descend to your camp by the lake.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xCpkuTU-z78/T_9M9N2IMWI/AAAAAAAAF5U/TCw0mvpnuGE/s1600/P1020548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xCpkuTU-z78/T_9M9N2IMWI/AAAAAAAAF5U/TCw0mvpnuGE/s400/P1020548.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route back to Haeckel Col is just left of granite slabs </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>Day 4</b> - Hike out in the morning. Consider some fishing on the way out, or if feeling randy, tag Picture Peak via one of the NE face routes.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This lollipop loop offers a "lite" but fully worthy outing for those with time constraints or for any skilled climber who really wants to take their time to make ridge traversing more safe and enjoyable. It avoids the most technical sections of ridge and can be done relatively easily with light packs, no ice axe or crampons, and with few to no rappels or belayed pitches.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><u><br /></u></b></div>
<div>
<b><u>Recommended Equipment (typical summer conditions):</u></b></div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Lightweight shelter - for camp</li>
<li>Food hang kit - to keep rodents out of stashed food at camp </li>
<li>Bivy kit (for 2 days on ridge)</li>
<ul>
<li>bivy sac (optional, weather dependent)</li>
<li>sleeping bag (30-45 degree down)</li>
<li>ultralight sleeping pad</li>
<li>ultralight cook kit (stove/pot/fuel capable of melting snow for water)</li>
<li>ultralight meals (just add water, cook in the cup style for saving fuel and weight)</li>
</ul>
<li>Headlamp</li>
<li>Clothing</li>
<ul>
<li>Weather resistant shell(s)</li>
<li>Light fleece</li>
<li>Light down or synthetic insulating sweater</li>
<li>Baselayers</li>
<li>Handwear</li>
<li>Climbing pants</li>
<li>Hat</li>
<li>Socks</li>
</ul>
<li>Sunscreen/lip balm</li>
<li>Sunglasses</li>
<li>Technical Gear (totally depends on group and climbing strategy) </li>
<ul>
<li>30m single or half rope, (or emergency dyneema/spectra rap cord). Note that small diameter ropes are less strong and take extreme caution to avoid being cut on sharp edges during use on rock. </li>
<li>Very light alpine rack</li>
<li>A couple slings, extra carabiners, and a belay device</li>
<li>Helmet (highly recommended)</li>
<li>Ice axe and crampons - may be needed early season.</li>
<li>Sticky rubber approach shoes (if climbing shoes and chalk seem necessary this route may be beyond your skills)</li>
</ul>
<li>Cup & spoon (a titanium or aluminum cup can help collect firm snow if without an ice axe)</li>
<li>Stuff sack - for collecting snow</li>
<li>First aid kit</li>
<li>Knife, tape</li>
<li>Snacks, bars, gels, sandwiches, etc.</li>
<li>Toiletries - remember to Leave No Trace, pack out your TP or burn it completely.</li>
<li>SPOT or other satellite communication - consider that this area is very remote for rescue and there is likely no cell service in this area in the event of an emergency.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LxidkgBdAEA/T_9U0VRR8MI/AAAAAAAAF5k/nqQFD6zLhLg/s1600/Evolution_Ridge_Panorama.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LxidkgBdAEA/T_9U0VRR8MI/AAAAAAAAF5k/nqQFD6zLhLg/s640/Evolution_Ridge_Panorama.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evolution Ridge from Evolution Basin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Enjoy this classic traverse and we would love to hear how it goes for you! If you like it, come back and do the first section of the ridge. If you are interested in some technical instruction or review on light and fast alpine climbing technique, adding security and efficiency on classic ridge traverses, or alpine bivy technique feel free to <a href="http://www.sierramtnguides.com/administrative/contact.htm" target="_blank">contact us</a> and we are happy to put together a custom course for you and your climbing partners. <br />
<br />
Happy climbing!<br />
Howie Schwartz, UIAGM guide & SMG co-owner</div>Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0Lake Sabrina Rd, Inyo National Forest, Bishop, CA 93514, USA37.150876393554263 -118.6617851257324237.138220893554262 -118.68152612573242 37.163531893554264 -118.64204412573243tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-9563313463173643882012-07-12T10:00:00.001-07:002012-07-12T11:57:44.174-07:00AMGA Certified Guides<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="headline_area">
<div>
<span style="color: purple;">*</span><u style="color: purple;"><a href="http://www.sierramtnguides.com/" target="_blank">Sierra Mountain Guides</a></u> was the first, and is currently one of the few, guide
services in the US that require guides to be AMGA certified or actively
on track toward certification in the guiding disciplines they work.</div>
<div>
</div>
<h1 class="entry-title">
Elevation Outdoors </h1>
<h1 class="entry-title">
<span style="font-weight: normal;">The Guide Line</span></h1>
<div class="headline_meta">
by <span class="author vcard fn">Doug Schnitzspahn</span> on <abbr class="published" title="2012-06-27">June 27, 2012</abbr></div>
</div>
<img alt="Guided Red Rocks" class="post_image aligncenter" height="380" src="http://www.elevationoutdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/red-rocks04-049-e1340823489378.jpg" width="513" /><br />
<em>Haul Bag? Nope. The six-day AMGA rock guide exam requires climbers to learn client care beyond belays.</em><br />
<h2>
<br /></h2>
<h2>
The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is attempting to
make sure people who go out climbing, mountaineering and skiing with
guides get what they pay for. But in a culture that encourages free
enterprise is Euro-style guiding the answer? It may be the only way to
go as younger climbers buy into international accreditation and land
managers nationwide demand that guides know what the hell they are
doing.</h2>
Read the full article here at <a href="http://www.elevationoutdoors.com/sports/climbing/the-guide-line/" target="_blank">Elevation Outdoors Magazine</a>!<br />
<a href="http://www.elevationoutdoors.com/sports/climbing/the-guide-line/" target="_blank"></a></div>Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-63576538045717997122012-07-09T15:10:00.000-07:002012-07-09T15:10:40.366-07:00Yosemite Conditions Report<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxJEyjRXTxGkEWYDDkupXEsPBceACuPZvAVLunT9sq5gh8aREf-7IlowFTid1O7UneN5EfIxEAGQWiRwFnrYw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br /></div>Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-47348468623492602032012-07-06T11:46:00.001-07:002012-07-06T11:46:12.247-07:00Sterling Rope Gear Review<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzqNTSTOy2OLnEo-9X6PO6EyW1Z8_v4AfJKYR2H5bsOBWXElC4Mog97T-nncI74HM1GVaCfALmb2xBYT3Eqrw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br /></div>Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-54956772042963937092012-06-28T08:50:00.000-07:002012-06-28T08:50:00.786-07:00Temple Crag Celestial Weekend 2012<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I met up with Taylor and John at our Bishop office to do a gear check and packing session prior to our weekend journey to Temple Crag. Both Taylor and John have climbed with SMG for some time and were well prepared for a big adventure. Taylor and Howie planned to climb Darkstar while John and I would be on the stunning Sun Ribbon Arête. Darkstar is rated Grade V 5.10b and Sun Ribbon is a Grade IV 5.10a. After a quick lunch in Bishop we swung by Howie’s house in Big Pine and then cruised up to the trailhead at the North Fork of Big Pine creek. The approach to Temple Crag involves classic variable Eastern Sierra terrain. We started at the Glacier Lodge and quickly gained elevation crossing some footbridges and making our way up the dessert trial. After about an hour we rounded a corner and were greeted by the North Fork of Big Pine creek falling down the valley in several cascades and waterfalls.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rWzCoeCUZjQ/T-uaEH3RgJI/AAAAAAAAF1o/9SsYgTtsnZc/s1600/IMG_0500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rWzCoeCUZjQ/T-uaEH3RgJI/AAAAAAAAF1o/9SsYgTtsnZc/s320/IMG_0500.JPG" /></a></div>
Just above the dry dessert gave way to an amazing high alpine meadow. The new terrain was replete with Quaking aspens, alpine flowers, meandering creeks, and grassy expanses. The contrast is so striking that is never gets old. All of us have spent time in the area and for me I can’t imagine getting to a point where I take this area for granted. After the meadows we passed a forest service cabin on our way to our first views of Temple crag.
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As you near 1st Lake you come around a bend and are slapped with an incredible view of the lake and Temple Crag in the background. That time of day the light pulls the arêtes out form the crag and allows great views of the routes. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ef7Pzb-FVpc/T-ugjTBeq5I/AAAAAAAAF2E/eu-RMlqfJrk/s1600/IMG_0508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ef7Pzb-FVpc/T-ugjTBeq5I/AAAAAAAAF2E/eu-RMlqfJrk/s320/IMG_0508.JPG" /></a></div>
It didn’t take any time from there to get to camp at 3rd lake. We set up camp, had a great dinner and went to bed early to get some rest for a big day.
We got a dark start on our climb day and John and I said goodbye to Taylor and Howie at 5am. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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They started for Darkstar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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and we went up to the Sun Ribbon arête. Our climb started off with some easy talus and scree climbing to the bottom of a steep snowfield. John and I got our crampons and ice axes out and headed up the frozen neve. The snow brought us to a big ledge traverse that lead to the bottom of the first pitch. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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With 20 pitches of climbing ahead of us we wasted no time diving in. The sun was just warming us as we started up the first pitch. After an remarkable morning of arête climbing <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ed3G1w6rtg/T-ukEn2jggI/AAAAAAAAF3A/WPP7i87u8bA/s1600/IMG_0527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ed3G1w6rtg/T-ukEn2jggI/AAAAAAAAF3A/WPP7i87u8bA/s320/IMG_0527.JPG" /></a></div>
we found ourselves staring at the Tyrolean Traverse pitch. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After about 8 tries we were able to catch one of the flakes on the other side of the 20’ gap. Many more marvelous pitches let to the summit ridge.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Near the ridge we were able to see Howie and Taylor on Darkstar to our North. You really can gain perspective when you can see climbers mixed in with the big terrain. I thought about taking a picture of them but reconsidered as it would have been a classic where’s Waldo.
John and I went for the summit of Temple <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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and then descended to Contact Pass. We could see Howie and Taylor making their way down and we descended back to the base of the route. After connecting with Howie and Taylor on the descent to camp we traded stories from our climbs and finished our 15-hour day with a big dinner and a well-deserved rest. All in all this was a mind-blowing adventure for all of us. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Big thanks to Talyor and John for being well prepared and trained for such a big day.
-NeilSierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-89868551399043749332012-06-26T11:55:00.001-07:002012-06-26T11:55:33.174-07:00Alex and Hans Nose Speed Record<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/rYtdiFeucYA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-76936917561092621622012-06-25T14:29:00.000-07:002012-06-25T14:29:11.620-07:00Trail Runner: Evolution Loop Fast Packing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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~Trail Runner July 2012 Edition</div>Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-68328208346988270342012-06-22T12:21:00.002-07:002012-06-22T12:21:41.593-07:00Wild Alpine / Ultima Thule - Alaska Ski! 2012<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This year's AK ski adventure was "all time." I think that is the modern lingo for "best ever." Aside from the fact that we skied perfect snow on all but 1 out of 7 mountain days, numerous descents in the 40-45 degree range on rarely (if ever) travelled, gigantic scale glaciers; and aside from the great company, excellent food, fine lodge hospitality, and breathtaking scenery, we did all of it in the heart of the most incredible and remote ski mountaineering range in the world - the Wrangells.<br />
<br />
<u>Check out these stats on the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve:</u><br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Largest National Park in U.S. (13.2 millon acres)</li>
<li>Contains 4 mountain ranges and 9 of the 16 highest peaks in the U.S.</li>
<li>Contains the largest concentration of 14,000'+ peaks in North America</li>
<li>Contains the largest glacier icefield, largest inland glacier, and the largest tidewater glacier on Earth</li>
<li>Features Mt. St. Elias, 4th highest mountain in North America, with greatest vertical relief of any peak on Earth. (18000' in 10 miles)</li>
<li>Part of the largest Protected Landmass on Earth (Wrangell-Saint Elias + Kluane in Canada)</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
Wild Alpine is the guide service we use that holds permits to this incredible Park. Ultima Thule is the lodge and outfitter that gave us fantastic, remote Alaskan accommodations, food, and flights. Paul Claus is one of the best bush pilots anywhere and I have been privileged to fly with him many times since 1996. Returning to this inspiring place after almost 10 years was a powerful experience for me. Like connecting to a very special time in life when mountains played a major role in forming my young adult perspective. Alaskan friends are friends for life and it was great to reconnect.<br />
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It seems that Taylor and Louise, the skiers on this trip, had a life changing experience as well. They walked around in utter disbelief of where we were the whole time, and it was indeed surreal to be having such a good time skiing in such an out there place. Louise was the true inspiration of the trip. At age 70 she kept up like a champ and showed that you are never too old for the spirit of adventure. She even skied a few very steep lines that were slightly outside of her comfort zone. What a courageous mountaineer! Taylor was so enthusiasic and it was such a pleasure to be able to share this landscape with him. He has become such a strong ski mountaineer over the last few years of trips we have enjoyed together. Both of these skiers may never experience this level of wilderness again and I am grateful for the opportunity to share turns in this special place with both of them.<br />
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Thanks to everyone who helped us pull this adventure off. Stay tuned for more ski trips in the Wrangell-St. Elias in the future.<br />
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See the photos and video from our trip which will give you more of the full story. Enjoy!<br />
- Howie Schwartz, UIAGM Ski & Mountain Guide<br />
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</div>Sierra Mountain Guideshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07128308787702583551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-11076730646123754572012-06-08T14:00:00.000-07:002012-06-19T13:40:08.055-07:00Palisade Traverse, June 2012<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Jon asked the typical questions. "How many times have you done the Palisade Traverse?" "Does it ever get boring?" The first question does not have a ready answer, which is the reason that the second does. First of all, it never gets boring in the Palisades. That is because it is never the same twice. I have indeed spent a lot of time on the ridge-crest between Thunderbolt and Sill. Guiding and personal trips have had me up there linking at least four of the area's five "14ers" eight times in the last four years. And that doesn't count the attempts that came up short. I can honestly say that no two of those trips were at all alike. This trip with ultra-running and self-deprecating B.A. Jon A. was no exception. We wanted to get Jon up there early in the season, and keep us both in approach shoes the entire way. We wanted to get some huge days of traversing under our harnesses. Fulfilling these objectives would get Jon on his way to his next big mission. Stay tuned, and in the meantime ponder that this was just Jon's "warm-up". <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEOrigJpjHu2GVcM1keN4-6Z14QqmpvhNenCxW3xa4O1VYVqtWXqutWr2ygdPh9ohRyKSRf16bgFbAP0dTfUiPoGFs-pVCKvG-68vHlghP78Taa5P2SVyWFBeob-XFmeqNWAZSTYRHVU/s1600/palisade+Traverse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEOrigJpjHu2GVcM1keN4-6Z14QqmpvhNenCxW3xa4O1VYVqtWXqutWr2ygdPh9ohRyKSRf16bgFbAP0dTfUiPoGFs-pVCKvG-68vHlghP78Taa5P2SVyWFBeob-XFmeqNWAZSTYRHVU/s400/palisade+Traverse.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This view never gets old.</td></tr>
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Anyway, we set out to tweak the standard guided Palisade Traverse <a href="http://sierramtnguides.com/alpine/tier3_Sierra/PalisadeTraverse.htm">itinerary</a>. Inspired by our very own <a href="http://www.sierramtnguides.com/rock/rock%20Tier%203/ClimbingwithPeterCroft.htm">Peter Croft</a>'s interpretation of this mega-classic traverse, we set out to approach and exit on the east and connect Winchell Col and Mt. Sill via the crest. Measured on Google Earth (using my new favorite tech tool, USGS topo overlays available <a href="http://www.gelib.com/usgs-topographic-maps-2.htm">here</a>) this section of ridge is a mile and a half. The "meat" of it is found between Thunderbolt and Polemonium. This section contains the best rock in the Palisades and the highest concentration of technical 14ers in the country. And this section is just a half-mile long. The often, and understandably, skipped NW ridge of Thunderbolt is a half-mile long on its own. The mathematician will quickly deduce that the section from Polemonium to Sill is a half-mile long also. In any case, we couldn't let Jon settle for anything less than the whole beast. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64x7sIQmMtZDa6fWU8M_QwdXokzndBsGzVPIAeTEzU97nnDUsXTMiTn2LrR56nnKBHmVPcnszY72-AOo3SH9G1PVLB-zudNAa94S8-11TyB_UTP7N237mJywZTCJd0KcLbiLU_QJATz4/s1600/P1090972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64x7sIQmMtZDa6fWU8M_QwdXokzndBsGzVPIAeTEzU97nnDUsXTMiTn2LrR56nnKBHmVPcnszY72-AOo3SH9G1PVLB-zudNAa94S8-11TyB_UTP7N237mJywZTCJd0KcLbiLU_QJATz4/s320/P1090972.jpg" width="240" /></a>Jon and I met in Bishop on Tuesday morning to talk logistics and gear, then headed out to the North Fork of Big Pine Creek. We busted in, as quickly as we could, to the Thunderbolt Glacier tarn camp. We napped on Yosemite-style glacier polish and grubbed on a big fat steak. That's livin'. <br />
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We woke with the sun on the chilly first morning and strode over to Winchell Col. That NW ridge has rock that is a little looser than further along, but it is a totally worthy addition to the traverse. We found mainly dry Cali rock, but did have to do some icy <a href="http://www.alpinist.com/media/web07f/italians-patagonia-3.jpg">Pata</a><a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107638177">Laska</a> style tunneling. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju323iLgZb9eX9icAL7O1CmcQNeSV2RFBppiB8Lz7U8Eh_Qk_cmMuL2B7ks9w9NuCkmx6b_F2__xODW5Xv_ZWpUlJM1lugkf82HZH-6mxoF3jsS_ng8vx-OX8_aC488d-ohGFT-mlbjSI/s1600/P1090982.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju323iLgZb9eX9icAL7O1CmcQNeSV2RFBppiB8Lz7U8Eh_Qk_cmMuL2B7ks9w9NuCkmx6b_F2__xODW5Xv_ZWpUlJM1lugkf82HZH-6mxoF3jsS_ng8vx-OX8_aC488d-ohGFT-mlbjSI/s320/P1090982.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"This is just like <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Alaska-USA-Peak-11-300-Southwest-Ridge">Peak 11300</a>, but different"</td></tr>
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I hate to say it, but the section from Thunderbolt to North Palisade was almost "routine". What a joy to traverse very familiar terrain with a strong partner. I don't pretend to think that Jon felt it was routine, nor do I mean any disrespect to this chunk of terrain. I was simply content to remember my first trip through that section a few years back and reflect on the accumulation of experiences there. Jon, in his way, will down-play his own performance. But, mark my words, the guy can move and tough it out. As much as he talks about enjoying suffering, I can only guess the misery this 100 mile runner can stand. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The latter part of the day, up onto North Palisade. Smack in the <br />
middle of the High Sierra's own <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circus_Maximus">Circus</a> <a href="http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/maximus-charcoal/">Maximus</a>. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset on North Palisade. Thankfully camp is just a single rappel away. Boo Yeah!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuxyTGzLVI4SBk64O7wYaNI0FxKFmw-QgdpCufW4U0naGLqYL7260D3v3GsNyQ6tFcNomM4gt_SkDN_1EfWOFAtappDbQuTKJU7IvJbo3MJ0Glmp6SJ19kgiYWJt0-615_MMeWMiTmvWo/s1600/P1100014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuxyTGzLVI4SBk64O7wYaNI0FxKFmw-QgdpCufW4U0naGLqYL7260D3v3GsNyQ6tFcNomM4gt_SkDN_1EfWOFAtappDbQuTKJU7IvJbo3MJ0Glmp6SJ19kgiYWJt0-615_MMeWMiTmvWo/s320/P1100014.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning lounging at 14k. That's livin'. Or does livin' mean steaks and glacier polish? Damn, what a trip!</td></tr>
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We woke, again with the sun, on the morning of day 3 high in the S. Bowl of North Pal. We knew we had made better than excellent progress, and even had the hubris to propose making the trailhead a whole day early. In the end we did exactly that, going from North Palisade over Polemonium to Sill and down and out. This last day was long, but felt like the wind-down after the prior day's blitz. All that, and we didn't short ourselves on anything: We slept, ate, and drank what we needed. We gathered a bazillion gigs of data via a total of five cameras. We never walked or climbed by headlamp. We did indeed work hard, but, as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sam_Ewing">Sam Ewing</a> said "Hard work spotlights the character of people: some turn up their sleeves, some turn up their noses, and some don't turn up at all." Jon turned up and turned it on. He very well may cite various challenges faced up in those Palisades, but as an observer, I can vouch for smooth adaptation to considerable difficulty. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sun sets on a day past, looking to a day ahead.</td></tr>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4492996532093534619.post-89421522711760758452012-04-30T09:44:00.000-07:002012-04-30T09:44:05.023-07:00Mammoth to June, April 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carl and Glen on the effortless, yet unrelenting, climb from Minaret Vista</td></tr>
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Adventure is where you find it, spring has sprung, and skiing is more than snow; a trip this past weekend connecting Mammoth and June via the ultra classic San Joaquin ridge proved all these maxims. <br />
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Carl has been telemark skiing since the year I was born. Glenn recently launched two young adult offspring and is returning to beloved mountains, this time on skis. I had "lost touch" with Sierra corn skiing. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFrjxcgTL-0OgR8gi-1p5HOe2Z1GZb36i06UyQsKX8w4HmyuQA3lqAR_jJoERfHiXMjdPY_3Ui-ctHroIuRzy4XPf4gCgFg6Orl375V760n7W-8eU6Y2DzxOiXqdiczyMVH6_hqF8H0DM/s1600/P1090252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFrjxcgTL-0OgR8gi-1p5HOe2Z1GZb36i06UyQsKX8w4HmyuQA3lqAR_jJoERfHiXMjdPY_3Ui-ctHroIuRzy4XPf4gCgFg6Orl375V760n7W-8eU6Y2DzxOiXqdiczyMVH6_hqF8H0DM/s320/P1090252.jpg" width="243" /></a><br />
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The Eastern Sierra is a unique place. Our huge north to south mountain range and parallel Owens Valley combine to funnel migrating birds. Standing high on the San Joaquin ridge, the dark and snow-striped Ritter range to our left and the Great Basin to the right, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_White_Pelican">pelicans</a> flying overhead seemed strangely out of place, but not at all surprising.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUCaay1GrgQd8QaiVJe1NfXceGMre1WhprD-tipQsb-xXAfjWEMEhIIxIG8iTN5lD8rfQ84fwg8tMpmQcnWt89HopZnFVOLfMrVvLcMSs1HG-OtuzH7Kr9mNjQtxByPz4kMQPhHW9Y4aY/s1600/P1090293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUCaay1GrgQd8QaiVJe1NfXceGMre1WhprD-tipQsb-xXAfjWEMEhIIxIG8iTN5lD8rfQ84fwg8tMpmQcnWt89HopZnFVOLfMrVvLcMSs1HG-OtuzH7Kr9mNjQtxByPz4kMQPhHW9Y4aY/s200/P1090293.jpg" width="150" /></a><br />
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High Sierra traverses bring a comfortable and familiar rhythm: Skin some with the pack, drop camp, ski a bowl, eat good food (steak is rare, if not "rare") sleep, repeat. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2sh7v1u0XF6eRUtbQjdTak3JcsLdNlP6bv7ulcIJ1qSgc1zWGYNh2SrdT5bfTCQMNkh-weLSv-KkN8QyNn7nJZ1qIIm4WMernQCoc0p8t1MGfwwKoiOGsOMX3b5tLqvuWcFTIJDSW310/s1600/P1090296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2sh7v1u0XF6eRUtbQjdTak3JcsLdNlP6bv7ulcIJ1qSgc1zWGYNh2SrdT5bfTCQMNkh-weLSv-KkN8QyNn7nJZ1qIIm4WMernQCoc0p8t1MGfwwKoiOGsOMX3b5tLqvuWcFTIJDSW310/s200/P1090296.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
Wake to beautiful views, scramble some ridgeline, make more turns. Repeat. That corn skiing, how can we describe it? Velvety, creamy, smooth, "hero snow". All are cliche, all are true. My own spring schedules the last few years have taken me from Sierra corn. I'm back, and won't turn back!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq60omdL3t35azzMJXIJGHn6PqV0CrRzTC4TheIhzDVWPINkEiPaI4nlumjvkq2DumcWqPx1OEdgxZZoPoOCFi1tO2P-cE2_FC2PB9Dd5JqZfENWHSVc6-goOMimVOJ-15UQeiHopOcRI/s1600/P1090343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq60omdL3t35azzMJXIJGHn6PqV0CrRzTC4TheIhzDVWPINkEiPaI4nlumjvkq2DumcWqPx1OEdgxZZoPoOCFi1tO2P-cE2_FC2PB9Dd5JqZfENWHSVc6-goOMimVOJ-15UQeiHopOcRI/s200/P1090343.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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The Mammoth to June tour is a "<a href="http://www.sierramtnguides.com/ski/skiTier3/SierraHighRouteSkiTour.htm">Trans-Sierra</a>-Style" tour without the huge car-shuttle hassle. The skiing is mellow, the terrain stunning. Packs can be light and the mountains traversed represent a wide range of biomes. On a Trans-Sierra one will go from Great Basin Desert to High Alpine to Westside Sequoias. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieagDrIF4F-aCODlk0uAGTErdW4m514QUvwjEoxXnXuBDV8jcRzfsUATyo5RX3Ycu5OVmPBqZ4SUkv0BFdnl1DeD8xVHZEw0HDAuBBNCZ_8Agvtl5fHd16FtYAcjsLq74dh3vsfAYQhCQ/s1600/P1090351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieagDrIF4F-aCODlk0uAGTErdW4m514QUvwjEoxXnXuBDV8jcRzfsUATyo5RX3Ycu5OVmPBqZ4SUkv0BFdnl1DeD8xVHZEw0HDAuBBNCZ_8Agvtl5fHd16FtYAcjsLq74dh3vsfAYQhCQ/s320/P1090351.jpg" width="240" /></a>On the Mammoth to June tour, especially this dry season, the variety of biomes was clear. We started in Mammoth's deep inter-mountain snowpack, climbed to high and windswept alpine and descended to June Lake's continental and drying montane conifer forests. Walking downhill in ski boots is inevitably painful, physically and psychologically. Each pounding step over dry trail is a missed turn and a tactile reminder that this foray to the mountains is ending. Skiing to the car, on the other hand, is trickery: one is fooled and distracted by the fun of making turns. "Oh, this is so much fun. Oh, I love to ski. Uh oh, the trip is over".<br />
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While it is a pleasant experience to delay the realities of not skiing, a walking return to the car does indeed dampen the blow of "re-entry". Re-enter well, Carl and Glenn, and come back soon. Everyone else, get some!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1