Showing posts with label Crystal Crag. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Crystal Crag. Show all posts

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Fall in the Eastern Sierra: Crystral Crag, North Peak's N. Couloir, Pine Creek, & SE Face of Emerson


On the sunlit edge of Crystal Crag's North Arete.
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, in the mountains it's all about flexibility.  Seems that's the theme of my entries here.  "We were greatly rewarded by the flexibility of so and so... blah blah blah."  But really, it makes a huge difference!  Ask not "how do I climb this mountain?".  Rather, ask, "what's the coolest thing to do right now?"  Billy came up for 4 days asking exactly that question.  He had some goals in mind:  big days, adventure, snow, rock, ice, summits.  Pretty good stuff, really.  But as for which routes and peaks we did, he didn't really care.  The journey is the important part.  Where did that journey take us?  We started with the North Arete of Crystal Crag.  An excellent warm-up and, with the South Ridge descent, is a full-on traverse of a High Sierra peak.
In North Peak's North Couloir-   Classic neve conditions.


 Next we headed for North Peak's North Couloir.  A proper mixed climb, this route combines a handful of ice pitches with 3 pitches of quality rock climbing.  Awesome.  Billy came with a climb like this as his main goal.  He'll be the first to admit that it was awesome, but just one day in almost a week of great days!
Approaching Emerson's huge SE Face
 Day 3 we went rock climbing in Pine Creek.  Recent and dedicated efforts by some of Bishop's finest have created some truly classic multi-pitch rock climbs out there.  We tackled "Chips off the Old Block", a 6 pitch 5.10b.

Day 4 we waffled a bit on plans, debating among our many excellent options.  Weather, access and desires narrowed the choices and soon the SE Face of Emerson rose to the top of the heap.  This is a huge route.  Never "hard", but constantly technical, Emerson can be a full-day and then some.  Billy came fit, got acclimated, and we crushed the agenda in a noteworthy-for-the-season sunlit car to car effort.  In fact, in civilized fashion, we never left the car before sunrise and never returned after.  

Above the face is some killer ridge-aneering.

Monday, September 26, 2011

Summer Alpine Climbing on Middle Palisade

Sometimes the best trips (or experiences or relationships or parties or... well, whatever) come out of changed plans.  This past trip to Middle Palisade was one such trip.  Chad  and John came with a long-dreamed itinerary.  John is ticking through the California 14ers (and might pursue those wimpy Colorado ones when he's old and decrepit).  Chad is the consummate High Sierra history buff.  John and Chad have known each other for a long time now, it seems.  14er hunters love Middle Palisade, history lovers hunt down Norman Clyde's tracks.  Where else to align these passions than in the South Fork of Big Pine Creek? 

The plan was to hike in one day, summit Middle Palisade the next, Norman Clyde Peak the third, and hike out the 4th. 

Early fall weather the weekend prior left the mountains dusted with snow up high, and scrubbed clean of dust and mosquitos down low.  We enjoyed the first hint of autumn on the valley floors, and reflected on the possibility of snow affecting our scrambling up high.

Checking things out at Finger Lake.  Chad B. photo.
Days 1 and 2 went as planned:  A wonderful hike in and a smooth ascent of Middle Palisade's classic East Face (big and tall, class 3-4).  We did encounter some snow near the top, but it was engaging rather than an obstacle.

Just a couple of Sconnies keeping it real
John and Chad up high on Middle Pal.  Chad B. Photo
As we rested in camp in the afternoon of day 2, we got a visit from a pair of returning Norman Clyde Peak aspirants.  Incidentally, one of these guys had taken an SMG avalanche course this past winter.  SMG folks are all over the mountains.  These two guys delivered a less-than-rosy description of the snow covering Clyde's North-Northeast route.  Our own misgivings, plus this report, prompted a change in plans. 

That's when the trip really got good, believe it or not.  There is a very real satisfaction in taking marginal conditions, and making a killer experience out of it.  Chad and John had that spirit.  "Things aren't as we had hoped.  How can we make things even better?"  John suggested hiking out the morning of day 3 and doing Crystal Crag (in the Mammoth Lakes Basin.  Ca. 1000 ft, 5.7.)  on Day 4.  Chad's fascination with Pine Creek rock climbing inspired a visit to "Racing Lizards" (5.7, 3 pitches) on the afternoon of day 3. 

We shifted gears, pigged out on the leftover camp supplies, and executed the new plan.  At the end of day 4 John mentioned that this was his "best trip to the mountains" and Chad mentioned that, while we (Jed and SMG) had a big reputation to live up to, we more than exceeded that.  All I did was "roll with it."  These guys had the flexible attitude that takes climbers and adventurers of all kinds to more than they ever expected.  Speaking of expectations, Chad has shared that his "ticklist" of High Sierra routes has "doubled or tripled" as a result of the rock climbing skills and demystification we covered this weekend.  As the seasons (and perhaps the climate of the High Sierra... I mean, what's up with this weather?) change, this flexibility and openness and willingness to grow will reap great rewards for Chad and John, Sierra Mountain Guides, and all mountain travelers!

Some well-traveled adventurers race lizards on their first rock climb.  Chad B. Photo.
The "Crystal Pitch"

Friday, September 23, 2011

CRYSTAL CRAG


We had another outstanding adventure up Crystal Crag on Sunday with Dave and Betty from San Diego. I have guided this classic peak many, many times, by several different routes but I often forget just what a good introductory alpine rock climb the South ridge is for the uninitiated yet enthusiastic. Mind you, the South ridge route should be climbed on the ridge proper not by side climbing the loose and less appealing East face. By staying on the South ridge, it is a true 4th class climb of just enough length and excitement to challenge and enjoy for a short day outing in the Mammoth Lakes Basin. Congratulations to Dave and Betty who did an outstanding job learning the ropes and moving their way solidly all the way to the exciting summit finish. Special kudos go to Betty who had never climbed a mountain like that before. I bet it will not be her last mountain climb either! Looking forward to spending time with both of these great people in the future.
                                                                                                                               - Howie

 Howie Tops Out!

 Dave on Top of Crystal Crag

Betty