Summer Alpine Climbing on Middle Palisade

Sometimes the best trips (or experiences or relationships or parties or... well, whatever) come out of changed plans.  This past trip to Middle Palisade was one such trip.  Chad  and John came with a long-dreamed itinerary.  John is ticking through the California 14ers (and might pursue those wimpy Colorado ones when he's old and decrepit).  Chad is the consummate High Sierra history buff.  John and Chad have known each other for a long time now, it seems.  14er hunters love Middle Palisade, history lovers hunt down Norman Clyde's tracks.  Where else to align these passions than in the South Fork of Big Pine Creek? 

The plan was to hike in one day, summit Middle Palisade the next, Norman Clyde Peak the third, and hike out the 4th. 

Early fall weather the weekend prior left the mountains dusted with snow up high, and scrubbed clean of dust and mosquitos down low.  We enjoyed the first hint of autumn on the valley floors, and reflected on the possibility of snow affecting our scrambling up high.

Checking things out at Finger Lake.  Chad B. photo.

Days 1 and 2 went as planned:  A wonderful hike in and a smooth ascent of Middle Palisade's classic East Face (big and tall, class 3-4).  We did encounter some snow near the top, but it was engaging rather than an obstacle.

Just a couple of Sconnies keeping it real

John and Chad up high on Middle Pal.  Chad B. Photo

As we rested in camp in the afternoon of day 2, we got a visit from a pair of returning Norman Clyde Peak aspirants.  Incidentally, one of these guys had taken an SMG avalanche course this past winter.  SMG folks are all over the mountains.  These two guys delivered a less-than-rosy description of the snow covering Clyde's North-Northeast route.  Our own misgivings, plus this report, prompted a change in plans. 

That's when the trip really got good, believe it or not.  There is a very real satisfaction in taking marginal conditions, and making a killer experience out of it.  Chad and John had that spirit.  "Things aren't as we had hoped.  How can we make things even better?"  John suggested hiking out the morning of day 3 and doing Crystal Crag (in the Mammoth Lakes Basin.  Ca. 1000 ft, 5.7.)  on Day 4.  Chad's fascination with Pine Creek rock climbing inspired a visit to "Racing Lizards" (5.7, 3 pitches) on the afternoon of day 3. 

We shifted gears, pigged out on the leftover camp supplies, and executed the new plan.  At the end of day 4 John mentioned that this was his "best trip to the mountains" and Chad mentioned that, while we (Jed and SMG) had a big reputation to live up to, we more than exceeded that.  All I did was "roll with it."  These guys had the flexible attitude that takes climbers and adventurers of all kinds to more than they ever expected.  Speaking of expectations, Chad has shared that his "ticklist" of High Sierra routes has "doubled or tripled" as a result of the rock climbing skills and demystification we covered this weekend.  As the seasons (and perhaps the climate of the High Sierra... I mean, what's up with this weather?) change, this flexibility and openness and willingness to grow will reap great rewards for Chad and John, Sierra Mountain Guides, and all mountain travelers!

Some well-traveled adventurers race lizards on their first rock climb.  Chad B. Photo.

The "Crystal Pitch"

Middle Palisade Peak

Tom and his godson Michael stayed in one of the cabins at the Glacier Lodge the night before we started our climb.  I met them at their cabin in the morning and we enjoyed the cowboy coffee and delivered breakfast as we chatted about our upcoming trip.  After breakfast we packed up and headed up the South Fork of Big Pine Creek.  Our destination was Finger Lake and after some great views, rain showers, and nice lunch we found ourselves at camp.  We set up the tents in the rain and dove in to stay somewhat dry.  The skies dried up in the early evening and allowed us to have a nice dinner and enjoy the last rays of sun.  We got an alpine start the next morning to beat the forecasted thunder/snow storm.  Our early start allowed us to enjoy an amazing sunrise and we climbed to the summit through some new snow from an earlier storm.  We left the summit before lunch and descend through the building clouds. After getting back to camp we packed up and trekked through the rain back to the cars.  It ended up being a long but great day.  Thanks go out to Tom and Michael for being great company and doing an awesome job on a challenging climb! 

                                                                                                                                      -Neil

Michael and Tom

Climbing to camp through the clouds.

Camp at Finger Lake

Middle Pal with new snow.

Alpine Start.

The East Face of Middle Palisade bathed in alpine glow .

Michael getting the the base of the East Face.

Climbing through new snow.

Michael on the Summit 14,012ft.

Looking to the South from the summit.

Tom is not a crook.

Descending through the clouds.

Heading back to the car.

Palisade Traverse in the Eastern Sierra

It's official, the Palisade Traverse is my favorite High Sierra offering! What a grand adventure: Wilderness approach, snow, ice, lightweight camping, amazing rock climbing, difficult summit pinnacles, high altitude, and an accumulation of demands to the body. Like many trips conducted with expertise in the ever-changing mountain environment, this particular traverse can be attacked with a number of strategies. Snow coverage, team fitness, rock-climbing prowess and weather forecast all combine to determine the appropriate tactics. Having done the traverse a number of times, in 4 different months of the year with many different combinations of the above factors, I feel well-versed in the options. I must say that my preferred schedule is the one Bill and I undertook this past weekend.

We hiked in on day 1 to the Thunderbolt Glacier tarn camp. This is a beautiful, smooth-rock campsite looking straight up at the imposing East Prow of Thunderbolt Peak.

We were able to wake around sunrise each morning of our 4 day trip. On day 2 we used the cool morning and firm snow to race comfortably up the North Couloir of Thunderbolt Peak.

Here is Bill on the traverse around "The Lightning Rod" on Thunderbolt.
We camped the second night at the Underhill Notch, scoring flat sandy spots, snow handy for water, and a leisurely, if cold, view of the sunset to the northwest.

A disproportioned view of the Thunderbolt Peak Summit block- quite a feat in mountain boots.
Bill and lichen coming 'round "The Archbishop", a tower on the spectacular Northwest Ridge of Starlight Peak.

The wild summit of Starlight Peak: "The Milkbottle"
From the summit of Starlight to the summit of North Palisade is a complicated couple hundred yards. It's climb down, rappel, across, up, down, swing across, scramble up, scramble down and finish with 2 5th class pitches right to the summit. Folks can easily converse between the adjacent peaks, but the traverse can take hours. Some knowledge and skill makes it smoother, but it's always an experience. This section of 'off-width' climbing is not the easiest variation, but it is a safer option, and photogenic to boot.
Summit of North Palisade:


Soaking up some sun, re-organizing, and grabbing a snack at the U-Notch.
Sunset view from camp very near the summit of Polemonium Peak.
Small, but fierce, these variations of "Nieve Penitentes" made a compelling foreground for a day 4 sunrise.

The final Summit, Mount Sill, with all the peaks lined up behind Bill's hooded head. This was a cold trip: each night we slept cold, each day we climbed in all our clothes and gloves. Brrrrr.